Sacai

Trend report: what to wear for AW23



Johnny Dufort for T Magazine

AW23 is emphatically female-focussed, kicking off with supermodel mania – that Vogue cover, the Apple series and a Linda Evangelista book – and continuing with a slew of women-championing exhibitions. We’ve also got the big Phoebe Philo reveal to come, as well as a focus on revivalist classic fashion (aka gentlewoman style). For this you can easily shop your closet, or consider buying pre-loved – the quality may be better and so may the price. “The connection between instability in the economy and consumers’ desire for classic, quality pieces that retain value is certainly at play, as is the cultural zeitgeist,” Kelly McSweeney, senior merchandising manager at The RealReal, told WWD. (more…)



Trend report: what to wear for AW22



Craig McDean British Vogue Aug 2022

As you know by now, my trend reports are utterly self-indulgent and reflect what’s ‘new’ through my own personal ‘gentlewoman style’ lens. So I’m glad to say that fifty shades of cappuccino, a Ralph Lauren revival, chunky gold chains and classic bags (with a twist) are all trending for AW22. Of course, the 90s is a major influence on fashion and culture. (more…)



Twenty years later: the Hermes tan trainer



Hermes aw98 trainers Vogue Runway

Ten years ago I would have been all over the Sacai x Nike trainer collab (a kind of double-everything monster trainer with a retro vibe). Today? Not so much. I’m well over super-statement trainers and prefer a Nike Air Max shape or a utilitarian gym shoe like a Converse Jack Purcell. (Currently seeking a JP in white – why so elusive, Converse?)

However, I’m feeling the return of the luxe tan trainer, an understated gender-neutral number that kicks the post-ironic, hypebeast trainer roundly in the butt. Do you remember when Hermès did its first trainer? It was in 1998 and part of Martin Margiela’s first collection for the house. A rich conker brown affair, Hermès was the first luxury brand to design a trainer made entirely of leather and thus the ‘Quick’ caused quite the stir. (more…)



THE DRG STYLE INDEX: Burberry, Vivienne Westwood, Gucci, Grenson, Matches



Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…

All attention has been on couture this week, with a wonderful Valentino show (Valentino is winning couture for me at the mo, not least for Pierpaolo’s studio antics), a pleasingly understated Dior show, and a shimmering Chanel show (watch my verdict on SHOWstudio). Elsewhere, these were my big stories…

BURBERRY X VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Burberry X Vivienne Westwood collaboration
Now here’s a collab I can get behind. Burberry and Vivienne Westwood are joining forces to rework pieces from the Westwood archive in support of rainforest charity Cool Earth. (more…)