Designers

Not your mother’s Tiffany?



Tiffany ad campaign 2021

Love, love, love the clean and classic styling on this Tiffany silver campaign.

The copy is a bit confusing though. It implies classic Tiffany is old fashioned with its “Not your mother’s Tiffany” strapline (which has riled its Instagram followers), yet then suggesting ‘mother knows best’.

Anyway, it’s always interesting to see heritage companies go back to basics; they all seem to do it. It’s a sort of way to reinforce their power, to show new customers their worth (these Elsa Peretti cuffs are iconic after all). (more…)



Everyone’s talking about Balenciaga couture



Balenciaga Couture Fall 21

The highlight of couture week has been Balenciaga couture Fall 21. A tribute to the absolute essence of Balenciaga, it was both austere and grandiose, and I think it’s fair to say, surpassed everyone’s expectations.

Having kind of tuned out recent Balenciaga ready-to-wear collections (too hype-y, too meme-y!), I was enthralled by this first Balenciaga couture collection in 53 years. The minimalist silhouettes, (what a fab trench!), the space-age headgear, the jeans and tee treatment and the baublicious jewels. What looked like a crocodile skin skirt and trousers were in fact made from tiny pieced-together squares of leather. There were shades of Margiela (one of Demna Gvasalia’s most respected designers), McQueen and – to my eye – Raf’s Dior. (more…)



Quote of the day: Pieter Mulier on Alaïa’s value-for-time approach



“He was taking his own time, but I also discovered that his clothes withstand time. They are eternal. While I was discussing with Richemont, I bought a lot of vintage pieces and each time I realized they were immune to aging. At Alaïa, creation has its own pace. Such a rare thing in the landscape of fashion. Time as luxury.”

A great reflection from Pieter Mulier on Azzedine Alaïa’s appreciation of time, Vogue. (more…)



SS22 menswear: Go to the nightclub with silk shirts on



Wales Bonner men ss22

The joy revolution that started to emerge during the SS21 collections last September is fully showing up for SS22. The most prominent menswear shows have been the ones with a message of optimistic hedonism expressed through colour, music and a throwback to rave culture.

For example I loved Dries van Noten’s Primal Scream soundtrack serenading us through the streets of Antwerp, with the lyrics of Loaded encouraging us to “be free to do what we wanna do!” Van Noten expressed the mood of his design team as “clothes to go and have fun in. Just enjoy things. Go to the night club with silk shirts on.” The shirts were the big highlight; big in every sense, printed with artwork by Rubens and Breughel, as well as photomontages depicting Antwerp city scenes, teamed with loud sunglasses and washed silk outerwear (more…)