Trend report: What to steal from Dior men winter 2020

Kim Jones’ magic formula of collabs, couture techniques and club culture continues to hit the high notes for me. A few weeks after his Dior fall 2020 show, he presented his Dior winter 2020 at the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Where fall was casual, sporty and colour-saturated, winter is coolly majestic.

The key component for me was the dedication to the late London creative legend Judy Blame, a friend and inspiration to Jones. Blame was a highly influential stylist and jewellery designer, part of London’s hyper-creative 80s scene who also collaborated with Jones on his Louis Vuitton collections. Blame’s signature aesthetic was a bricolage approach to styling and design, crafting jolie-laide pieces from unexpectedly mundane objects (champagne corks! Safety pins!), or throwing on a jacket inside out. It was a precursor to today’s eco-conscious approach, although back in the 80s came from lack of resources rather than an eco-warrior stance.

I digress. This collection collaborated with the Judy Blame Trust to access the archives and take inspiration from his craft. So tailored outfits were accessorised with trouser jewellery designed by in-house director of Dior Men’s accessories Yoon Ahn; long, fluid shirts were layered under toile de jouy-style hand knits, and single earrings adorned earlobes. These are all looks I’d adopt in a heartbeat.

Dior menswear winter 2020 Vogue Runway trouser jewellery
Dior men winter 2020 toile de jouy sweater
Dior men winter 2020 MA1 Vogue Runway

As always, my standouts were the outerwear pieces; a fantastic camel coat lined in baby blue (a favourite Dior colour combo), numerous silk moiré macs, plus a satin MA1-style bomber that zipped up the back for a ‘cutaway’ option (above and below). Dior menswear is a huge hit with women and this is the piece I expect to see on Jones’ coterie of female fashion groupies. I want one badly.

Dior men winter 2020 Vogue Runway
Dior men winter 2020 MA1 By Acielle - Style Du Monde

Jones has made it his mission to inject a couture sensibility into his RTW menswear. While fall used a little-known Japanese marbling textile technique, winter took to the Dior vaults to unearth a 1969 Marc Bohan dress, whose sequin embroidery fed into the design of a spellbinding opera coat. Someone get this on Tilda Swinton’s back, immediately! If you’re into this sort of couture porn, then check out Dior’s textile consultant Edward Crutchley on Instagram, giving the lowdown – it’s a treat to watch.

Dior men winter 2020 Vogue Runway

The clothes were fantastic but it’s the overall package that makes this so special. The vibrant light show, graphic set design, Honey Dijon-scored soundtrack (Fleetwood Mac’s Big Love throughout) and speedy choreography gave this its energy and drama. My favourite finishing touch? Tiny metal press studs glued to the inner corners of the eyes by Peter Philips’ make-up team to suggest the humble treasures that were the tools of the trade of Jones’s muse. Genius.

Dior men winter 2020 beauty By Acielle - Style Du Monde

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Dior men winter 2020 by Acielle – Style Du Monde/Vogue Runway
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Nicole McLaughlin and More or Less magazine

Nicole McLaughlin for More Or Less mag

I just picked up my copy of the much-feted Vogue Italia illustrated issue. The idea is that by having all the fashion editorials illustrated, rather than expensively shot on location, not only would Vogue Italia lighten its carbon footprint, but the money saved would be donated to help restore the Fondazione Querini Stampalia in Venice, recently damaged by the floods. While some considered this a cynical greenwashing gesture, I think every little helps. Plus I love fashion illustration (even more so, magazines without pesky coverlines!).

But for a more in-depth fashion magazine that’s spotlighting creative sustainability, look to More or Less magazine. (more…)

Retail round-up: Lunar New Year airport pop-ups are a data-capture gift to beauty retailers

Lancome Renovated Absolue Cushion

DFNI associate editor, ALISON FARRINGTON reports on the travel retail beauty opportunity for Chinese New Year

Chinese New Year is upon us and travel retailers across Asia have been creating special promotions designed to attract passengers for the biggest Chinese shopping opportunity of the year. Travel retail or duty free shoppers are big business. Often referred to as the ‘Sixth Continent’, in 2018 the global market was worth $79bn.

Beauty remains the biggest and fastest-growing product sector in travel retail, while Asia Pacific is the category’s main growth driver. In 2018 the region saw beauty sales grow 23.5% to a total of $31.5bn. Beauty and fashion accessories are the biggest pull for Chinese travellers eager to snap up seasonal limited editions at the airport. This year’s theme is Year of the Rat (sometimes interpreted as a mouse) and we’ve seen brands adopting characterful themes such as Rocket Rat and even Mickey Mouse. (more…)

The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren

The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren book by Paul Gorman

This Malcolm McLaren biography is likely to get a lot of attention from McLaren-heads when it comes out. Written by Paul Gorman, author of The Story of The Face, Mr Freedom and The Look: Adventures in Rock and Pop Fashion, he knows his fashion onions and you can trust he will have done thorough research. (I didn’t realise he was still writing his most excellent blog, Paul Gorman Is…)

Back to Malcolm, The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren promises to be the definitive biography of the cross-cultural visionary whose influence looms larger than ever. With authorised input from family and friends, contributors include Steven Spielberg (McLaren was his Hollywood ideas guru – who knew?), Quentin Tarantino, Lauren Hutton, Chrissie Hynde and Vivienne Westwood.

Malcolm McLaren always came across as somewhat unknowable to me. His many stories seemed to contradict each other and although his creative genius is undisputed, he also had his fair share of detractors. That said, I’m a huge fan of his ideas and artistry and I could listen to one of those lengthy lectures for hours. I’m very much looking forward to the book when it comes out in April. Happy Birthday Malcolm…!

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman