Design

The pragmatic privilege of the understuffed bag



Chanel by Despi Naka

A few seasons ago, we romanticised the existential poetry of the overstuffed handbag. In 2024, it was kooky, chaotic, main character-coded but also… highly impractical. While I’m a chronic overstuffer (umbrella, multiple lip products, all of the pens – classic Virgo!) I’m also so over being encumbered (physically and psychologically) with all this stuff! Even men are at it with their ‘mine-is-bigger-than-yours’ ginormous commuter backpacks bursting with God knows what. (No really, what are they carrying in them?)

These days, I aspire to be like the street style ladies of Fashion Week, with their courtesy cars quarter-filled suede bucket bags, supple leather totes and soft baskets, telegraphing unburdened freedom and subsequent unbothered joy. And, no doubt, also free from coccyx twinges and ‘laptop shoulder’.
Marta Oldrini understuffed bag by Despi Naka
Cartier bag by Despi Naka
Despi Naka
Despi Naka bag
Despi Naka green bag
Marta Oldrini understuffed bag
Yellow Jil Sander bag by Despi Naka

Apparently, ‘the Gen Zs’ have fallen for the ubiquitous Longchamp Le Pliage tote* – a study in pragmatic product design if ever there was one. Me, I’m thinking Toteme’s floopy leather tote* (now on sale), Liffner’s soft bucket bag*, the underrated L’Uniform ‘cake bag’ (in cherry red canvas) or The Whitechapel Gallery’s Klein blue mini tote for local errands and coffee shop trips to accommodate just a newspaper, phone, sunglasses, keys and cash/cardholder. (Controversial: maybe I’ll even leave the phone at home!)

NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST (I MAY EARN A COMMISSION ON THE BASKET VALUE OF ITEMS BOUGHT*)…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: 6 x Despi Naka; Marta Oldrini; 1 x Despi Naka
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here.



Random recs: Arthur Elgort the movie, Harvey Nichols, Siri Hustvedt, peak merch and more



Violet Grey Harvey Nichols window

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ Merch as clothing systems. This is a great read on the evolution of merch. (Anyone for a Palantir hoodie?)

“Which brings us back to peak merch. If the last wave was about identity as consumption – proof of taste, proof of experience, proof-you-were-there – this next phase feels more like identity as positioning. The shift isn’t that merch signals allegiance (it always has), but what that allegiance points to. Not scenes, subcultures or shared memories – but systems, ideologies and power structures that are much harder to decode.” (more…)



The rise of the elevated general store



Labour & Wait

There’s a particular appeal to the general store. You don’t need anything urgently, yet the wares are such items that you could always do with stocking up on and you feel a sense of secure well-being at having that perfectly utilitarian stapler, milk pan, or toothpaste squeezer in your possession. A general store also satisfies your shopaholic impulses while tempering the dopamine spike with practical use as the end game.

Some examples I love: Jasper Morrison’s almost invisible shop at 24b Kingsland Road E2, where I bought my yellow steel stapler 17 years ago (below, a great example of an essential everyday object that brings joy). Morrison also designs saucepans, cutlery and even furniture for Muji, that temple of practicality, where I repeat-buy my cereal bowls, ‘right angle socks’ and 0.7 gel pens. (more…)



Ode to a revitalising scarf



The Sartorialist

I said a few weeks ago that I didn’t think Michael Rider’s Celine would radically change the way we dress. I still don’t, other than I think he’s succeeding in shifting the tyranny of ‘quiet luxury’ into a more colourful direction.

And one key way he’s doing that is with the silk square scarf.

Formerly Hermès territory, the Celine scarf feels more sporty, vital and graphic. Hermès scarves can also be graphic but there’s often a lot going on in them. (Some have as many as 47 colours, requiring 47 engraving films, as I once discovered on an Hermès workshop tour.) My favourite Hermès scarves were always the geometric ones I loved the Sugimoto (below), Josef Albers (below) and Natalie Rich-Fernadez’s Delaunay-esque ones of a few years ago. (more…)