Business of fashion

More on floopy Birkins and not-so-pristine status bags



Floopy Birkin Mary Kate Olsen

‘Floopy’ Birkins are in the news again.

Last year I noticed the move towards not-so-pristine heritage handbags, the kind that look like they’ve been inherited from a wealthy aunt rather than bought box fresh from Luxury Promise. Vogue Business (pay wall) has dug deeper into the phenomenon with new stats from The RealReal that show people are buying visibly lived-in Hermès Birkins and Chanel Double Flaps at a lower price than the ‘mint’ standard usually expected on vintage sites. In the past, luxury resale sites wouldn’t really entertain shabbily treated luxury bags, so it’s very revealing to note the shift.

According to The RealReal’s 2023 Luxury Consignment report, demand has doubled for luxury bags in ‘fair’ condition since the site started accepting them for resale last year. In a global cost of living crisis, it seems there’s still many a consumer who wants to flex a status bag. These lived-in luxuries provide a gateway for those consumers, letting them buy them for 33% less than their ‘perfect’ cousins. In the ‘fair’ condition category, unsurprisingly 60% of the market goes to heritage brands – Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and co.

As Milton Pedraza, CEO of the Luxury Institute commented in the FT while discussing the resilience of legacy brands and how they retain their perceived value in the current financial climate, “they’ve targeted a mindset, rather than a demographic. [And the mindset is] ‘Grandma (or Great-Grandma), can I borrow that Kelly bag?’”

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Mary-Kate Olsen
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Bode just unveiled its vison for womenswear



Bode AW23 womenswear - Ssense

There was a big post-show buzz around the Bode AW23 show during men’s Fashion Week in Paris. For the first time. Emily revealed her ambition for womenswear; not a ‘feminised’ take on her menswear as one might expect but a fully realised vision that riffed off early 20th century glamour, incorporating familial storytelling (of course) and handcrafted embellishment.

It got rave reviews, although I felt the styling of the menswear was more eclectic. My highlights: an equestrian-themed applique jacket, hand-knit embroidered sweaters and gloves, a perfect shawl-collared tuxedo and the men’s T-bars and Mary Janes.

This vision of Bode brings a charming new flavour to the tradition of American narrative fashion – a more personal and artisanal alternative to Ralph Lauren, perhaps? See more here and here and details here.

 Bode AW23






 Bode AW23
 Bode AW23
 Bode AW23

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Bode AW23 via SSense, Vogue Runway
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare



Positive fashion: Nike Re-Creation



Nike Re-Creation upcycled patchwork sweats

Two new initiatives on my radar in the repair and re-wear space.

Nike’s Re-Creation project upcycles deadstock and used clothing into new, lovingly crafted pieces where stains and holes are creatively transformed or carefully camouflaged (below). It’s not an entirely unique approach – lots of small start-ups have used this method – but the execution is more in line with my taste. (more…)



In case you missed it – 2022 edition



Miu Miu chinos ss22

While newsletters may be the new blogs, I still have a solid reader base and for that I thank the regulars who revisit and even subscribe. You know who you are! (Reminder: you can subscribe here to receive my weekly blog digest.) But in case you missed any, here are a few of my favourite posts from 2022…

The trend round-ups are always popular. 2022 was the year of Miu Miu chinos, designer water bottle holders, Mary Jane shoes and Khaite everything. Revisit the reports here and here. (This month I also chimed in on the Miu Miu micro-mini craze for BBC Culture.) (more…)