As debuts go, the Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 show got all of the buzz and all of the love. The show sounds like a total emosh-fest, with Virgil and Kanye openly bawling all over each other at the finale. I wasn’t there but I saw it on the ‘Gram, which these days practically amounts to the same thing.
My verdict? Boy, it could have done with a much tighter edit. There was way too much styling, a few footwear misses and those multi-pocket Michiko Koshino-style vests were a tad overdone. But for a first collection, it wasn’t bad and it set out his intentions fairly clearly. (Charlie Porter writes it all up in the FT but the TLDR is that Virgil wants to elevate the ordinary for kids like he used to be. Hence all the sporty pieces that – apparently on close inspection – are made with demi-couture level pattern-cutting, fabrics and stitching.) Theatrics and emotional flim-flam aside, I filtered out the best bits so you don’t have to…
The all-white tailoring gave me Puff Daddy vibes and the monogram embroidered suit in particular offered plenty of red carpet potential
Yes to the camel ensemble, no to the cheap and nasty looking chains on all the bags…
A little bit The North Face on acid, a little bit poor man’s Raf, the Virgil fans will love this psychedelic number. (Wait, is anyone else getting Raf X Dior X Sterling Ruby flashbacks?)
Something about this utilitarian red is speaking to me and this mega-pleated trouser shape was omni-present throughout the collection
These abstract florals are interesting and poetic, yet designed to accommodate all shapes and sizes of Vuitton man
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 via Telegraph (top) and Vogue Runway
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My WhatsApp has been abuzz with the news that Dries van Noten has sold a majority share of his company to Spanish luxury group, Puig.
Dries has famously said that he loves the size of his company, having independent control and isn’t interested in vast expansion. He is respected for not pandering to the fast cycle of fashion and arguably, the appeal of his clothes is that they’re designed with an individual point of view, they age with you and become part of your look. (more…)
It will be interesting to see the evolution of legacy luxury houses as a new generation of company leaders takes over. Rimowa (now owned by LVMH) has placed 26-year-old Alexandre Arnault (son of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault) at its helm and is already attracting millennials with its recent Supreme and Off-White collabs (I quite like the Off-White see-thru case). LVMH also just installed another son, Antoine Arnault in a role managing image and communication for the conglomerate.
Here’s our latest monthly retail round up celebrating experimentalism and innovation on the high street. From the latest social campaigns to exciting new collections and retail formats, we’re watching – and shopping.
/NYDEN’S INFLUENCER DESIGN ROSTER
Just when you thought influencer-commerce had had its day, something new comes along.
H&M’s newest ‘streetwear’ brand, /Nyden had a soft launch (on social media anyway) back in February, with email teasers sent out to early adopters talking about ‘tribe building’ and rewards for your community. Now we see why. With seasonless drop-culture at the heart of the influencer-slash-celebrity themed collection, H&M is pitching /Nyden as a community brand. Via collaborations with music or sports talents (more…)