Business of fashion

Hermes AW21 – a dance of toughness and tenderness



Hermes aw21

The three-part Hermès AW21 ‘show’ started in New York with a dance performance choreographed by Madeline Hollander. Impeccably scheduled, the live stream began with dancers sporting identical uniforms of turtleneck, pleated midi skirt and tall boots, performing elegantly rhythmic sequences and gestures expressing the heartbeat of “how New Yorkers move through the city”.

The live broadcast switched seamlessly to Paris, where we watched a runway show of models weaving amongst towers of orange cylindrical boxes, followed by a third act, live from Shanghai, choreographed by Gu Jiani. (more…)



Quote of the day: Dimepiece founder Brynn Wallner



Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis sporting her Cartier Tank

“There’s also no centralized resource for women who have a similar mindset…There’s just not a place where you can get a straight answer about anything even down to the fundamentals. Like: How do I know what kind of bracelet I want? Or do I want a leather strap? Or what’s the value of a metal? Do I want gold? Do I want stainless steel? There’s nobody helping answer those questions in a centralized place for women. And I feel like men have the luxury of nerding out on Reddit threads and can figure it out from there. But there aren’t that many women included in those dialogues.”
Brynn Wallner, Hodinkee (more…)



Positive fashion: Cut n sew



Wright Le Chapelain deconstructed shirt

I just stumbled upon Wright Le Chapelain on Instagram, a fashion brand with an early 90s Margiela-esque ethos and aesthetic.

The designers source secondhand shirts from the Crisis UK charity and upcycle them into new deconstructed pieces alongside suitings sourced from British heritage mills. During Covid, this local sourcing strategy has kept the business afloat. (more…)



Trend report: what to wear for SS21



Hermès SS21

God I’m so bloody ready for spring, aren’t you? Granted I mean actual spring more than fashion spring but fashion spring is a good start. I was wondering if we’d see big changes for SS21 but I don’t think our post-Covid reality has quite revealed itself yet. So consider my spring post more of a general round-up of things I’m eyeing at the moment…

1/ TALISMAN JEWELLERY.
Meaningful charms, amulets and talismans feel right for these pearl-clutching times and I’ve certainly found myself reaching for my dad’s old gold rings that I wear on a chain whenever I feel like I need some tactile reassurance. I’ve also been revisiting Tina Chow jewellery on Pinterest, along with the equally sculptural pendants of 1970s Elsa Peretti (below). (more…)