Business of fashion

Gentlewoman Style: New Celine AW19



Celine AW19

Funny isn’t it, how quickly one adapts. In one season the media and public have flipped from hating Hedi’s take on Celine to kind of loving it.

When Hedi Slimane showed his first vision of new Celine, Phoebe Philo’s fan club were bereft. They swarmed to Vestiaire Collective to buy up whatever Phoebe-era #oldceline bags and shoes they could get their hands on, freaking out that her conceptual-lite aesthetic had been obliterated by evil Hedi in place of – the horror! – generic luxury tropes of the sort he’d previously produced at Saint Laurent.

Six months later though, they’ve calmed down and come round. (more…)

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London Fashion Week AW19 – in brief(ish)



JW Anderson London Fashion Week AW19

This felt like an extremely polished London Fashion Week. Roksanda, JW Anderson, Victoria Beckham and particularly Mary Katrantzou showed mature, slick collections that nailed their individual DNAs. And while you expect the newbies to be a bit scrappier in their presentation, they too were impressively coherent.

I was blown away by Matty Bovan, who, assisted by Katie Grand’s crack styling team and a helping hand from Coach, delivered a super-sophisticated spectacle reminiscent of Westwood or Galliano. His USP is a very British artsy-craftsy take on knitwear that was bricolaged with crochet, ruffles and Liberty-print florals (more…)

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Bulk buy and long tail – can Wardrobe NYC work?



Wardrobe NYC capsule wardrobe puffa


Wardrobe NYC, a new concept for fashion, works by delivering pieces in ‘packs’ rather than individually. So rather than buying a jacket or a top, you’re committed to buying a bulk set of clothes that work together.

Crucially, the design is immaculately considered for the fad-averse gentlewoman (or man) who just wants good clothes. Behind the concept are Australian designer Josh Goot and Louis Vuitton stylist Christine Centenera. (more…)

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From the vaults: Levi’s Engineered Jeans (they’re back!)



Levi's Engineered Jeans SS19

Levi’s has done it again with its new Levi’s Engineered Jeans collection. (OK, not that new, if you remember them from the first time round in 1999.) 20 years ago, Levi’s brought out a unique darted and twisted seamed jean that was a radical departure from its classic Americana silhouettes. Strange as it was, it caught on instantly and was widely copied for a few seasons.

This spring, Levi’s has revived the cuts with a special edition reissue for men and women. (more…)

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