Business of fashion

Nicole McLaughlin and More or Less magazine



Nicole McLaughlin for More Or Less mag

I just picked up my copy of the much-feted Vogue Italia illustrated issue. The idea is that by having all the fashion editorials illustrated, rather than expensively shot on location, not only would Vogue Italia lighten its carbon footprint, but the money saved would be donated to help restore the Fondazione Querini Stampalia in Venice, recently damaged by the floods. While some considered this a cynical greenwashing gesture, I think every little helps. Plus I love fashion illustration (even more so, magazines without pesky coverlines!).

But for a more in-depth fashion magazine that’s spotlighting creative sustainability, look to More or Less magazine. (more…)



Retail round-up: Lunar New Year airport pop-ups are a data-capture gift to beauty retailers



Lancome Renovated Absolue Cushion

DFNI associate editor, ALISON FARRINGTON reports on the travel retail beauty opportunity for Chinese New Year

Chinese New Year is upon us and travel retailers across Asia have been creating special promotions designed to attract passengers for the biggest Chinese shopping opportunity of the year. Travel retail or duty free shoppers are big business. Often referred to as the ‘Sixth Continent’, in 2018 the global market was worth $79bn.

Beauty remains the biggest and fastest-growing product sector in travel retail, while Asia Pacific is the category’s main growth driver. In 2018 the region saw beauty sales grow 23.5% to a total of $31.5bn. Beauty and fashion accessories are the biggest pull for Chinese travellers eager to snap up seasonal limited editions at the airport. This year’s theme is Year of the Rat (sometimes interpreted as a mouse) and we’ve seen brands adopting characterful themes such as Rocket Rat and even Mickey Mouse. (more…)



Quote of the day: Zoe Bedeaux on Judy Blame



Judy Blame by Paul Hartnett

“Judy used to play around with all of those luxury brands, cutting up their logos and rebranding them – brands like Moët, Chanel and Vuitton. i-D used to print letters that were sent in and Moët sent one in saying that they were looking for Judy – they wanted to prosecute ‘her’! (more…)



Business of beauty: First look at Hermès make-up



Hermes make-up launches with lipstick

First look at Hermès make-up – and it’s very covetable.

Back in March 2019, Hermès announced it would be launching beauty this year. By some sort of spooky telepathy, I happened to email the PR yesterday to check in on the launch date. It’s launching in March, she said. And that was it. Today, WSJ has a bit more news. Hermès is launching Rouge Hermès, a line of 24 refillable lipsticks, in two finishes, a satin and a matte. They will be lightly fragranced with a custom blended scent created by Hermès perfumer, Christine Nagel.

I’m loving the traditional-meets-modern vibe. On the one hand it’s a classic bullet lipstick, not an ‘ink’, oil, or liquid. On the other, it’s an eco-conscious refillable concept in the vein of La Bouche Rouge (more…)