Business of fashion

Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein :(



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein

Yes, it’s true. In news that most fashion insiders saw coming, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways.

It all started promisingly, with Raf’s arty Americana-themed debut well received by critics back in 2016. High points for me were the American quilts, Warhol collaborations, Western-influenced denim and those off-beat balaclavas. The Kardashians campaign lost me a bit and may well have been the point where Raf realised, maybe he wasn’t cut out for this level of commerciality. (more…)



Positive beauty: Costa Brazil by Francisco Costa



Costa Brazil Francisco Costa sustainable beauty brand

I’m liking the sound of Costa Brazil, the new sustainable beauty brand by – who’d have guessed? – Francisco Costa.

If you remember, he was ousted as women’s creative director of Calvin Klein to make way for Raf, but this art-meets-beauty concept (partly inspired by artist Piero Manzoni) has apparently been on his mind for a while. “The last three years at Calvin were nothing but brutal. I felt liberated to do something new, and I already had this in mind. It switched the energy positively,” he told Vogue.com.

Core to Costa Brazil is a super-ingredient, Breu, a sweet-smelling resin that comes from the Almacega tree (more…)



Trend report: Namastay in bed




One of this year’s inescapable lifestyle trends has been for stressed out, cash-poor millennials to stay home rather than go out. Which means the money they do have gets spent on small pleasures like scented candles, cute lighting, superior bedding and sheet masks aplenty. Vox unpacks the story in detail here. The TLDR is that  – as with any emerging grassroots movement – commercial brands have been quick to hop on this gravy train, with the so-called ‘homebody economy’ spawning all manner of businesses catering to the #Namastayinbed brigade.

Beauty-wise, it’s a huge cash cow. (more…)



Positive fashion: recycled gold jewellery



Lilian von Trapp

Two sustainable jewellery brands on my radar; one high end and one more affordable.

I came across Lilian von Trapp’s discreet fine jewellery (above and below, from £310) last week at one of the SS19 press days. I love these super-fine recycled gold earrings that are stone-free but just as twinkly as the rarest diamonds.

You can wear one or two, or wear different sizes in each ear or different sizes in the same ear. (more…)