Fashion shows

At Miu Miu SS22 normcore meets corporatecore – complete with New Balance 574s



Miu Miu SS22

Loved the subverted normcore-meets-corporatecore vibes at Miu Miu SS22. The perfect coat, chinos, shorts, button downs and New Balance trainers, all in deconstructed proportions and styled with Miuccia-approved grey socks. And for after work, the chicest appliqued silk skirt suits and shift dresses.

Vogue described it as a ‘back-to-work wardrobe for the post-pandemic age’. As discussed here a year ago and again a couple of months ago, it’s a sign that young office workforce enterers want their slice of the corporate-wear life – but make it Fashion. (more…)



Shang Xia SS22 delivers super-luxe fashion for a future generation



Shang Xia SS22 PFW

An invigorating, palate-cleansing debut from Yang Li at Shang Xia SS22 yesterday.

The Beijing-born, Australia-raised designer showed his futuristic luxury vision for gen-2050 in a quest to put Chinese design centre stage. “It’s like imagining an empty chair at a round table of luxury fashion brands that should be for a Chinese representative. What a great mission to embark on. We’re going to give it our best go,” Li told Vogue.

As a breather from the maximalist showbiz of Fashion Month so far, we saw 90s-flavoured unlined leather coats and flat-front pants with signature Yang Li cape-detail dresses in fabrics that look deceptively simple from afar but I’m sure are ravishing when seen – and felt – in the flesh. Offsetting the sleek black separates were pops of neon orange and yellow on waistbands, box bags and surprisingly wearable trousers. The cool-girl casting and minimalist styling added to the appeal for me, not least as Joe McKenna was styling the show. (more…)



SS22 trend report: Bodycon, but make it body positive



Acielle street style SS22

To get a real sense of next season trends, I like to look at Acielle’s (Aka Style Du Monde) Fashion Month street style photography. Not so much the super-peacock types, but the ones wearing denim with interesting tops and choice accessories. That’s the best way to see a more ‘everyperson’ way of wearing fashion.

My big takeaway for SS22 is the almost universal appetite for barely-there, bodycon and cutaway clothing. It was first evident to me at Collina Strada and Eckhaus Latta at New York Fashion Week. What was interesting about those designers’ treatments was the body positivity expression. Eckhaus Latta especially took a 1990s influence and added a decidedly inclusive 2020s interpretation (below). (more…)



Street style before ‘Street Style’



Diana Vreeland featured in Nova 1969 photographed by Steve Hiett via Magazine Fan
The SS22 fashion weeks are almost upon us and with them, the return of IRL street style.

I’m reminded of these old shots from the September 1969 issue of Nova magazine, by the sadly departed Steve Hiett, who captured fashion editors in the wild, in the days before they were the main attraction.

What I like about these editors is they look like they’re dressed to work, rather than to be photographed. (more…)