Fashion shows

Trend report: my AW19 wish list



Jil Sander Aw19

While the fashion industry is becoming less seasonal by the day, instead opting for more frequent ‘drops’, in my mind, September is still officially New Season month. I still look forward to the September issue of Vogue (yes, I’m the one keeping print afloat) (Just – R.I.P Marie Claire) and I’m relieved to see proper clothes in the shops instead of endless tees and shorts. Hey, I’m a knitwear girl! Here’s my pick of the autumn trends and best buys I’m eyeing for the forseeable…


DIOR GORPCORE
While Dior menswear is getting most of my love at the moment, I’m here for the Dior plaid cagoule (complete with Stephen Jones bucket hat, below). Could designer cagoules be the new luxe hoodie?
Dior Aw19


POST PUNK KNITS
On the knitwear front, I’m into the Hades Wool post-punk collaborations (below), featuring Joy Division, DEVO and Xray Spex. Alas, so are lots of other people; these sweaters are being snapped up super-fast. Bella Freud has also produced a trove of near-perfect punk inspired mohairs. But for day-to-day, I’ve found the best basic knits from AW19 are from Chinti & Parker, COS, Arket and Extreme Cashmere. Also notable is this Sunspel lambswool knit in military green or cobalt blue.
Hades Wool Joy Division


CRYSTAL BALLS
I spotted some of Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s glass twist jewellery at Mouki Mou in Chiltern Street, which sent me down a Pinterest rabbit hole of glass and crystal baubles. There I discovered these highly strokable Cyril Studio crystal ball earrings and pendant by artist Leila Du Mond. Duly added to the fantasy shopping list…
Cyril Studio Lunar Pendant
Cyril Orbital Drops


GARCONNE FOOTWEAR
I’ve got Paraboot Michael shoes on my mind; the classic French crenelated sole lace-up shoes (below), perfect for inner city running around. I’ve seen them at Toast and Mouki Mou, but I’m yet to take the plunge. At the other end of the French footwear scale, the stack heeled boot returns, courtesy of Hedi Slimane’s Celine (below). I still have an old L’Autre Chose grained leather pair so I’ll shop my closet for those, but if you’re in the market for a lower price pair, have a look at Arket.
Paraboot Michael shoe for women
Celine AW19 boots


JIL SANDER & CO
While Bottega and Celine grab the headlines, Jil Sander (below) has quietly been reclaiming its own cohort of fans. I’ve spotted a great edit of voluminous white shirts at Dover Street Market, while The Row is about to open its first London store. And for more pristine oversized menswear-inspired garb, Studio Nicholson has come up with the goods once again.
Jil Sander Aw19


OG DENIM
On my denim wishlist? The same as last season. And the season before. OK, I’m always looking for dark blue denim and this season it has a slight Western flavour to it. Get the jeans and matching shirt-jacket from Lemaire if you’re minted (below), or Levi’s Made & Crafted if you’re not.
Lemaire denim aw19


BOOK BAGS
In the interest of high-low dressing, my bag of the season isn’t the Lutz Morris Norman Mini bag, but the humble book tote. The New York Times wrote about the cult German book bag, while I’m still toting my ancient Strand Book Store tote. But Idea Books’ ‘Techno’ number (below) is my new tote of choice – a steal at twenty-odd quid (here or here).
Techno tote bag Idea


G BEAUTY
This season’s geographical beauty trend is all about G for good old, no-nonsense German beauty. Dr Hauschka is a mainstay, followed by Weleda (actually Swiss-German) and skincare brand of the hour Augustinus Bader. Bader is a professor and scientist whose cult face moisturisers (the Cream and the Rich Cream) were developed from stem cell technology designed to heal burns victims’ skin. The brand itself only exists to fund his research. Look out for the newest launch (*press sample), The Body Cream, which uses the same formula for firmer, even-toned skin. Finally, Germany’s Olverum therapeutic oils (below) are new to me. The Olverum Dry Body Oil, made with a green and citrusy blend of more than 30 essential oils first created in 1931, has just landed at Les Senteurs.
Olverum Dry Body Oil


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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Credits to come
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The DRG Style Index: Dior, Goodhood, Harrods, Comme des Garçons and more…



Here’s the latest DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…

DIOR MEN SS20
Dior menswear SS20
One of my SS20 menswear highlights (again) was Dior, whose creative director, Kim Jones continues to play with ‘feminine’ tropes like organza and embroidery in its menswear shows. My favourite: this embroidered organza bomber covered in painstakingly hand-pleated swirls – immaculately replicated in the hair. (more…)



Raf’s reset for SS20



Raf Simons SS20 Christina Fragkou for Dazed

I didn’t see the Raf Simons SS20 show irl, but I watched it on Instagram Live – is that not the same but almost better? Except instead of chatting to your seatmate after the show, you read the reactions of other Raf-heads (and then check Tim Blanks’s review to fill the missing knowledge gaps).

So accordingly, the Raf Simons SS20 show was a resetting, or returning back to basics of sorts. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Ami Paris AW19 womenswear



Ami Paris Aw19 womenswear

Ami Paris is going large on womenswear. For SS20, the French menswear brand just showed a full women’s collection as part of a co-ed runway show in Milan and according to BoF, womenswear actually informed the men’s design for the season too.

Ami Paris has featured womenswear in its collections for a while, but mostly as scaled-down carbon copies of the men’s pieces. While there are some strong looks in the new SS20 collection (like this one), I think I prefer the simplicity of Ami’s classic garconne look. (more…)