It feels like every show season I’ve covered for the last God knows how many years has referenced some sort of uncertain dystopian future. Economic, political, ecological and now major health pandemic. I’m bored of writing about protective armour-like layers and ominous colour palettes. Bring me the light! The joy! A glimmer of hope! Or maybe just these primary coloured pops of minimalism by Hermès.
For Hermès AW20, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski took unexpected inspiration from her design hero, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. (more…)
Hedi Slimane gets a lot of hate, but generally I’m a fan. His latest Celine AW20 collection got criticised for its predictability – bourgeois rock ‘n’ roll again?! But you can’t deny, up close the pieces are immaculately cut and have that forever classicism that’s in keeping with today’s anti fast-fashion mood. (I’m not quite ready to embrace the fashion rental movement; I’m a keep-forever kinda girl.)
The one show that dominated my NYFW social feeds? The Row AW20. One wag described it as “the same collection I’ve been seeing for the last six seasons.” No matter; its predictable self-assured minimalism and quiet tailoring offer something of a sartorial salve in troubled times. And after all, anti-fashion is the new Fashion. (Or something.) Highlights were the floor-nuzzling trench coats, collarless boxy jackets and full-legged pants. Plus more rollnecks layered under unadulterated shirting (also trending this season, fyi). (more…)
“I am doing it alone, out of my house, with external collaborators and ateliers. And I am so happy. I had 25 years of working in a big house. I learned a lot. Maybe what I learned most now is I don’t have to function like that. I don’t have to speed up a collection just because an executive tells me to speed up. Now I can be very artisanal. This is the heart of my work, my world. I am putting all my savoir-faire on the line. ”
Another designer on the go-slow train, Bouchra Jarrar is returning to fashion, at her own decelerated pace. The couturier who went to Lanvin RTW for a hot minute is following in the footsteps of other designers like Thakoon Panichgul, producing a very trim collection of signature pieces. (more…)