Fashion shows

Hed Mayner SS23



Hed Mayner SS23

I’m not quite sure how Hed Mayner escaped my notice until now, but here we are. Satisfying my love for all things utility-luxe, oversized and rough-around-the-edges, his SS23 collection is an excellent intro to his quiet, self-sufficient world.

Extreme sloping shoulders are something of a signature, seen here in pinstripe tailoring and 80s-Stone-Island-meets-90s-Yohji outerwear, as are repurposed fabrics – e.g., broderie anglaise bedlinens starched and refashioned into roomy tunics and dresses. (more…)



Lemaire SS23 highlights



Lemaire ss23

What a week it’s been in the UK. If you’re craving calm and serenity after the last few days of chaos, please join me in appreciating the SS23 collection from Lemaire. Ahhhhh that feels better.

There was quite a bit of model-audience interaction at last weeks’ menswear shows. Lemaire also had an element of this with the models posing as everyday people just hanging out doing not very much, while the press and visitors mingled among them wondering which were the models and which were the guests. (In a case of role reversal, the peacocks were the watchers and the understated androgynes were the watched.) (more…)



First look at Wales Bonner SS23



Wales Bonner SS23

Dear Louis Vuitton, please put Grace in charge of menswear already!

The Wales Bonner ‘Horizon Blues’ SS23 collection is a wonderful evocation of ‘European heritage meets Afro Atlantic spirit’. But of special note are the pieces tailored by Old Burlington Street’s Anderson & Sheppard. The camel hair overcoat (serving Fran Lebowitz swagger), the cashmere dinner suit, the DB sleeveless jacket and trousers – pure perfection. (more…)