“There were all these small designers who were kind of mad geniuses doing what they wanted, and it was about the beauty of [fashion]. And it went from creativity to commerce; now it’s all commerce—it’s all about numbers and [the] bottom line and focus groups. That’s what drives fashion now. It’s different worlds. It’s just different. It doesn’t mean there aren’t great people out there; it means that the business of fashion has superseded the art.” (more…)
Digital LFW was overall a bit of an anti-climax. Unlike many, I don’t ridicule the British Fashion Council for it. I applaud them for trying in #unprecedented times. The main criticisms of the new ‘digital hub’ format were that the content wasn’t exciting enough, there were too few new collections, the panel discussions were too focused on the same topic (Covid) and panellists were ‘the usual suspects’. (more…)
It feels like every show season I’ve covered for the last God knows how many years has referenced some sort of uncertain dystopian future. Economic, political, ecological and now major health pandemic. I’m bored of writing about protective armour-like layers and ominous colour palettes. Bring me the light! The joy! A glimmer of hope! Or maybe just these primary coloured pops of minimalism by Hermès.
For Hermès AW20, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski took unexpected inspiration from her design hero, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. (more…)
The one show that dominated my NYFW social feeds? The Row AW20. One wag described it as “the same collection I’ve been seeing for the last six seasons.” No matter; its predictable self-assured minimalism and quiet tailoring offer something of a sartorial salve in troubled times. And after all, anti-fashion is the new Fashion. (Or something.) Highlights were the floor-nuzzling trench coats, collarless boxy jackets and full-legged pants. Plus more rollnecks layered under unadulterated shirting (also trending this season, fyi). (more…)