While the rest of the world is in turmoil, one thing can be relied upon; a classic Raf Simons show. All the hallmarks were present and correct for SS19; a youth culture theme (this time the sweet spot between punk and new wave), inspiration-appropriate music (Bela Lugosi is Dead by Bauhaus) and intriguing clothes that made you want to pinch to zoom. (more…)
As debuts go, the Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 show got all of the buzz and all of the love. The show sounds like a total emosh-fest, with Virgil and Kanye openly bawling all over each other at the finale. I wasn’t there but I saw it on the ‘Gram, which these days practically amounts to the same thing.
My verdict? It would have benefited with a much tighter edit. (more…)
Burberry’s youth play Burberry swapped out its interactive show format this season with a much-simplified version. In recent seasons it has created cultural exhibitions as its catwalk backdrop that are then open to the public for a week or so. This season – Christopher Bailey’s last collection for the brand – it took place in a vast, dark warehouse with plain Jane chairs lining the perimeter.
I eased into LFW on Friday with a first stop at Boden’s Future British showcase at 180 The Strand. This is the LFW base, a couple of blocks along from its former home in Somerset House. At the Future British breakfast, I got talking to Jo Sykes who is back in action with her own line, Sykes, having spend years working for other brands (Nicole Farhi, Aquascutum). I’ve always loved her pattern cutting and fabrications. If you love a silk shirt, she is your woman. (more…)