fashion shows

Hermès takes Manhattan



Hermes AW24 New York Theo Werner

My SS24 trend report picked up on the major appetite for leather, and of course Hermès comes top of the leather lust list.

Hermès just showed the second ‘chapter’ of its AW24 collection in New York – a seductive, cinematic portrayal of wearable-yet-sexy (for straight-laced Hermès) leather trousers, jumpsuits, outerwear and abundant Mapplethorpe-esque caps that some thought dominated the show, but I rather loved. (Once a stylist always a stylist.)

Dior paid a similar tribute to Manhattan recently (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Dior pre-fall 2024



Dior pre-fall 24

My favourite look from yesterday’s Dior pre-fall 24 show at the Brooklyn Museum is this leather all in one number (above).

Maria GC gets a ton of stick for her collections (please – enough with the logos and book bags!), but this was one of the stronger ones. Themed with a NY-Paris bent, it used Marlene Dietrich’s personal style – and friendship with Monsieur Dior – as its running thread, with garconne tailoring, calf-length beaded flapper dresses and oversized coats (more…)



Dries Van Noten: Say it ain’t so!



Dries van Noten X Gill Button

A sad week for Dries heads. It’s just been announced Dries Van Noten is stepping down from his namesake brand after 38 years and the fashion world is in mourning.

A thoroughly nice (and normal!) guy who respects women, a brilliantly consistent designer who charms through clever juxtapositions (more…)



Tod’s AW24: Press here



TODS AW24

Two quick takeaways from the Tod’s AW24 show. Precision-pressed creases on overlong tailored trousers to give a super-lengthening effect to legs (above and below). And the double-shirt styling – so simple and achievable (above and bottom).

Pressed creases are a trend that continues where Prada left off. Mrs Prada, that is. Her deliberate steam-creased skirt folds went viral after appearing in M Le magazine du Monde last year (below). But if you’re going to attempt this look, do it like you mean it. (more…)