fashion shows

Gentlewoman style: Dior pre-fall 2024



Dior pre-fall 24

My favourite look from yesterday’s Dior pre-fall 24 show at the Brooklyn Museum is this leather all in one number (above).

Maria GC gets a ton of stick for her collections (please – enough with the logos and book bags!), but this was one of the stronger ones. Themed with a NY-Paris bent, it used Marlene Dietrich’s personal style – and friendship with Monsieur Dior – as its running thread, with garconne tailoring, calf-length beaded flapper dresses and oversized coats (more…)



Dries Van Noten: Say it ain’t so!



Dries van Noten X Gill Button

A sad week for Dries heads. It’s just been announced Dries Van Noten is stepping down from his namesake brand after 38 years and the fashion world is in mourning.

A thoroughly nice (and normal!) guy who respects women, a brilliantly consistent designer who charms through clever juxtapositions (more…)



Tod’s AW24: Press here



TODS AW24

Two quick takeaways from the Tod’s AW24 show. Precision-pressed creases on overlong tailored trousers to give a super-lengthening effect to legs (above and below). And the double-shirt styling – so simple and achievable (above and bottom).

Pressed creases are a trend that continues where Prada left off. Mrs Prada, that is. Her deliberate steam-creased skirt folds went viral after appearing in M Le magazine du Monde last year (below). But if you’re going to attempt this look, do it like you mean it. (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Toteme time



Toteme AW24 fashion show

If Toteme is trying to be the affordable(ish) Row, it’s succeeding. Its stealth AW24 fashion show during couture week delivered lean trench coats and floor-sweeping trousers styled with the airiest of scarf-neck blouses, while its new Mount Street store is a shrine to tailoring, leatherwear, handbags (that T-lock!*) and jewellery as polished as its more expensive neighbours (but with much more welcoming sales staff) .

I suspect having established its early position in the stealth luxe sphere, Toteme will start to add a few more unpredictable designs and styling twists to keep our interest piqued (more…)