COS

Trend report: my AW19 wish list



Jil Sander Aw19

While the fashion industry is becoming less seasonal by the day, instead opting for more frequent ‘drops’, in my mind, September is still officially New Season month. I still look forward to the September issue of Vogue (yes, I’m the one keeping print afloat) (Just – R.I.P Marie Claire) and I’m relieved to see proper clothes in the shops instead of endless tees and shorts. Hey, I’m a knitwear girl! Here’s my pick of the autumn trends and best buys I’m eyeing for the forseeable…


DIOR GORPCORE
While Dior menswear is getting most of my love at the moment, I’m here for the Dior plaid cagoule (complete with Stephen Jones bucket hat, below). Could designer cagoules be the new luxe hoodie?
Dior Aw19


POST PUNK KNITS
On the knitwear front, I’m into the Hades Wool post-punk collaborations (below), featuring Joy Division, DEVO and Xray Spex. Alas, so are lots of other people; these sweaters are being snapped up super-fast. Bella Freud has also produced a trove of near-perfect punk inspired mohairs. But for day-to-day, I’ve found the best basic knits from AW19 are from Chinti & Parker, COS, Arket and Extreme Cashmere. Also notable is this Sunspel lambswool knit in military green or cobalt blue.
Hades Wool Joy Division


CRYSTAL BALLS
I spotted some of Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s glass twist jewellery at Mouki Mou in Chiltern Street, which sent me down a Pinterest rabbit hole of glass and crystal baubles. There I discovered these highly strokable Cyril Studio crystal ball earrings and pendant by artist Leila Du Mond. Duly added to the fantasy shopping list…
Cyril Studio Lunar Pendant
Cyril Orbital Drops


GARCONNE FOOTWEAR
I’ve got Paraboot Michael shoes on my mind; the classic French crenelated sole lace-up shoes (below), perfect for inner city running around. I’ve seen them at Toast and Mouki Mou, but I’m yet to take the plunge. At the other end of the French footwear scale, the stack heeled boot returns, courtesy of Hedi Slimane’s Celine (below). I still have an old L’Autre Chose grained leather pair so I’ll shop my closet for those, but if you’re in the market for a lower price pair, have a look at Arket.
Paraboot Michael shoe for women
Celine AW19 boots


JIL SANDER & CO
While Bottega and Celine grab the headlines, Jil Sander (below) has quietly been reclaiming its own cohort of fans. I’ve spotted a great edit of voluminous white shirts at Dover Street Market, while The Row is about to open its first London store. And for more pristine oversized menswear-inspired garb, Studio Nicholson has come up with the goods once again.
Jil Sander Aw19


OG DENIM
On my denim wishlist? The same as last season. And the season before. OK, I’m always looking for dark blue denim and this season it has a slight Western flavour to it. Get the jeans and matching shirt-jacket from Lemaire if you’re minted (below), or Levi’s Made & Crafted if you’re not.
Lemaire denim aw19


BOOK BAGS
In the interest of high-low dressing, my bag of the season isn’t the Lutz Morris Norman Mini bag, but the humble book tote. The New York Times wrote about the cult German book bag, while I’m still toting my ancient Strand Book Store tote. But Idea Books’ ‘Techno’ number (below) is my new tote of choice – a steal at twenty-odd quid (here or here).
Techno tote bag Idea


G BEAUTY
This season’s geographical beauty trend is all about G for good old, no-nonsense German beauty. Dr Hauschka is a mainstay, followed by Weleda (actually Swiss-German) and skincare brand of the hour Augustinus Bader. Bader is a professor and scientist whose cult face moisturisers (the Cream and the Rich Cream) were developed from stem cell technology designed to heal burns victims’ skin. The brand itself only exists to fund his research. Look out for the newest launch (*press sample), The Body Cream, which uses the same formula for firmer, even-toned skin. Finally, Germany’s Olverum therapeutic oils (below) are new to me. The Olverum Dry Body Oil, made with a green and citrusy blend of more than 30 essential oils first created in 1931, has just landed at Les Senteurs.
Olverum Dry Body Oil


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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Credits to come
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Trend report: What to wear and do for SS19



Givenchy ss19 by Corey Tenold

Even though people are sniffy about trends, I still quite like tracking them. The trick is just to pay attention to the ones that work for you. So in this wee SS19 round-up, I’m deliberately ignoring anything overstatementy or hype-y that will have disappeared in a year. And instead homing in on the classics that have been reinvented or lifestyle movements that will impact how we live.

NOGO We’ve reached peak logo (sorry Gucci) and now it’s about deliberately unbranded products. I signed up to Italic last year, which is a membership-based direct-to-consumer company selling unbranded, yet high quality products that come straight from the factory. (more…)



It’s not about product so what works in bricks and mortar retail now?



what works in bricks and mortar retail now? Tiina The store Amagansett Christopher Sturman for The New York Times

News broke last week that Debenhams, one of the UK’s biggest department store chains, is closing 50 stores. I worked as a sales girl at Debenhams in Oxford Street during my art student years and I loved it. I worked with amazing people, liked selling and would pop across the road to the Keith Haring and Kenny Scharf exhibitions at the Anthony d’Offay gallery in my lunch hour.

I haven’t really shopped there as an adult, other than occasionally for beauty or pots and pans. I’m more of a high-end heritage shopper or I go to the minimalist stores like Cos and Arket. But it’s a serious warning sign that retail really is changing. Debenhams’ competitors like John Lewis & Partners and Selfridges have been much better at creating a modern lifestyle destination, which taps into the idea that stores aren’t only for shopping. (more…)



The DRG retail index: COS, Afound Sweden, H&M Paris, John Lewis, Browzzin, Depop



COS Repurposed cotton project

Here’s our latest monthly retail round-up celebrating experimentalism and innovation on the high street. From re-sale to re-make, this month our news feed is buzzing about the latest sustainability campaigns from high street players, while influencer-commerce is entering a new democratic phase.

COS RE-MAKES SWEATSHIRTS
COS is the latest H&M brand to launch a dedicated circular-fashion collection as part of its goal to be using 100% sustainably-sourced materials by 2030. The Repurposed Cotton Project (above) is a capsule line of sweatshirts for men, women and kids, made using cotton scraps left over from the brand’s main production process. After shredding and compacting the surplus cotton, COS re-uses it to make freshly dyed crewneck sweatshirts (more…)