We need to talk about Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton SS19

Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 via AP

As debuts go, the Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 show got all of the buzz and all of the love. The show sounds like a total emosh-fest, with Virgil and Kanye openly bawling all over each other at the finale. I wasn’t there but I saw it on the ‘Gram, which these days practically amounts to the same thing.

My verdict? Boy, it could have done with a much tighter edit. There was way too much styling, a few footwear misses and those multi-pocket Michiko Koshino-style vests were a tad overdone. But for a first collection, it wasn’t bad and it set out his intentions fairly clearly. (Charlie Porter writes it all up in the FT but the TLDR is that Virgil wants to elevate the ordinary for kids like he used to be. Hence all the sporty pieces that – apparently on close inspection – are made with demi-couture level pattern-cutting, fabrics and stitching.) Theatrics and emotional flim-flam aside, I filtered out the best bits so you don’t have to…

The all-white tailoring gave me Puff Daddy vibes and the monogram embroidered suit in particular offered plenty of red carpet potential
Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19

Yes to the camel ensemble, no to the cheap and nasty looking chains on all the bags…
Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19

A little bit The North Face on acid, a little bit poor man’s Raf, the Virgil fans will love this psychedelic number. (Wait, is anyone else getting Raf X Dior X Sterling Ruby flashbacks?)
Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19

Something about this utilitarian red is speaking to me and this mega-pleated trouser shape was omni-present throughout the collection
Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19

These abstract florals are interesting and poetic, yet designed to accommodate all shapes and sizes of Vuitton man
Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19
Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton SS19 via Telegraph (top) and Vogue Runway
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Dries van Noten has sold to Puig

Dries van Noten AW18 by Sonny Vandevelde

My WhatsApp has been abuzz with the news that Dries van Noten has sold a majority share of his company to Spanish luxury group, Puig.

Dries has famously said that he loves the size of his company, having independent control and isn’t interested in vast expansion. He is respected for not pandering to the fast cycle of fashion and arguably, the appeal of his clothes is that they’re designed with an individual point of view, they age with you and become part of your look. (more…)

Next-gen luxury – all change at the top

Off-White X Rimowa clear case

It will be interesting to see the evolution of legacy luxury houses as a new generation of company leaders takes over. Rimowa (now owned by LVMH) has placed 26-year-old Alexandre Arnault (son of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault) at its helm and is already attracting millennials with its recent Supreme and Off-White collabs (I quite like the Off-White see-thru case). LVMH also just installed another son, Antoine Arnault in a role managing image and communication for the conglomerate.

And news just in, Miuccia Prada’s 30-year-old racing driver son, Lorenzo Bertelli joined Prada last September as head of digital communications. (more…)

The joy of scrapbooking

Bill Cunningham scrapbooks - Photo by Peter Garritano for The New York Times Bill Cunningham scrapbooks - Photo by Peter Garritano for The New York Times

I feel like I’m currently getting all my fashion and culture info from the New York Times. I love this piece on photographer Bill Cunningham’s scrapbooks, in which he collated cuttings, photos and ephemera from his time as a milliner in 1950s New York. His two scrapbooks are part of the New-York Historical Society exhibition, Celebrating Bill Cunningham (until September 9).

I used to be an ardent scrapbooker (more…)