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AW19 trend report: Quilting



Gabriela Hearst AW19

Here’s something new to explore if you’re a perennially cold-blooded girl but want a change from knitwear. Quilting!

Specifically, this quilted trench ensemble by Gabriela Hearst*, above. (Note: she now has a shop in Brook Street). But also the elevated quilted patchworking at Louis Vuitton (below, great for layering) and this fab Bonny fencing-style jacket from Isabel Marant*.

Louis Vuitton AW19
Louis Vuitton AW19
Louis Vuitton AW19

Emily Adams Bode’s patchwork jackets* are also worth your attention. Patchwork is labour-intensive hence the price, but for more realistically priced quilting, I like these Kantha jackets from Toast.

And if the quilting bug has well and truly enveloped you, there’s more. Jessica Ogden’s upcycled patchwork quilts and cushions for A.P.C are now in their 17th season – I love this red and blue colourway (below). They land on 24th October.

Aw19 quilting trend: Jessica Ogden X A.P.C

Meanwhile, Parisian polymath and vintage whisperer Gauthier Borserello (more on him to come) has started yet another venture. His Lenaik patchwork quilts are made from second hand fabric upcycled from French and Italian shirt factories. See more here

NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST (I MAY EARN A COMMISSION ON THE BASKET VALUE OF ITEMS BOUGHT*)…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Gabriela Hearst/Vogue Runway, Louis Vuitton/Vogue Runway x 3; A.P.C
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Press trip: 40 years of the Agnes b snap cardigan



 Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition

“Upstairs in a vintage boutique in Tokyo, where most of the clothes were from Comme des Garcons, Margiela, Sacai, Yamamoto, the proprietor had an entire rail of your cardigans. He said they went with everything and that when stocks ran low, people would start to get anxious!”

This is writer Sophie Fontanel penning a sort of love letter to Agnès b in the Assouline book, The Snap Cardigan. Like the origin story of the cardigan itself (in which an officer during the Crimean War took a sword to his vest and then attached buttons), Agnès b’s famous snap button cardigan came to be in a similar way. In 1979 Agnes scissored the front of her classic white sweatshirt, attached mother of pearl snap fastenings and inadvertently created a cult hit. Forty years later the cardigan has seen dozens of iterations, from cropped, to leather, to full-length dresses, to currently every colour in the spectrum.

To celebrate the UK publication of The Snap Cardigan, Assouline hosted a launch in its Piccadilly store last month. After I shared some pictures on Instagram, my DMs went into overdrive with messages. “I loooove Agnès b!” “Oh, is the snap cardigan back?” “I wanted one so badly as a teenager. I couldn’t afford it though, so I bought the Kookai copy!”

A couple of weeks later I was invited to Paris to visit a photography exhibition of the Agnès b snap cardigan (until 19 Oct) and see the SS20 Agnès b show. The exhibition, ‘Photographers, Artists and The Snap Cardigan’ is on the ground floor space of Agnès b’s HQ at 17 rue Dieu. Sixty photographers and artists’ interpretations of the cardigan are on show, with work from the likes of Juergen Teller, Maripol, David Lynch, Luna Picoli-Truffaut and Joel Meyrowitz.

Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition, Paris
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition, Paris
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition, Paris
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition, Paris
Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition, Paris

Post-exhibition, we headed to the store nearby at 13 Rue de Marseille and after lunch (at La Marine – get the ricotta ravioli and die happy), hit the Palais de Tokyo for the afternoon show.

In an era of relentless fashion drops, it’s good to be reminded of brands that stay the distance by owning their niche. Agnès b is emblematic to my generation of a distinctly cool, utilitarian Parisian brand. As a passionate supporter of art and film, her clothes have starred in iconic style-centric movies, including Reservoir Dogs, Pulp Fiction and Bruce Weber’s Let’s Get Lost. (For the full low-down of her extensive art collection, I recommend her other book, Styliste).

In essence, Agnès b has never been achingly ‘fashionable’, so it’s never un-fashionable. Using the cardigan story as a useful example, the brand is rooted in utility-chic; boiler suits, rugby top stripes, white shirts, sweats and tees. While the SS20 show included plenty of joy-giving dresses and print separates, it was the work wear pieces and flat espadrilles that reinforced the Agnès b spirit. An anti-fashion spirit, if you will, and one that by chance (or the inevitable timing of fashion) has it chiming with the current vogue for everyday, gender-non-specific vetements – with inherent style credentials of course…

Agnes b store, Paris
Agnes b store, Paris
Agnes B SS20 NowFashion


I attended the Agnès b show and exhibition as a guest of the brand. The exhibition is at 17 rue Dieu, Paris until 19th October.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Disneyrollergirl; 3 x Nowfashion
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman



Positive fashion: On Zalando, activist spokesmodels and profitable ethics



At The Beauty Conversation* we have been talking for a while about the shift from models and influencers to ‘activist models’, as a vehicle for brands to express their ethical values. This shift is reaching its peak now with most brands hiring outspoken role models who have a strong social media following and a passion for activism or a cause rather than standard models or It Girls as their ‘face of’.

Example: multi brand e-commerce retailer Zalando, who has hired gender nonconforming model Rain Dove (above), plus-sized model Felicity Hayward and Gurls Talk founder Adwoa Aboah for its latest ‘Free to Be’ campaign. (more…)



New name to know: Legres artisan boots



Legres boots

I had a DM chat with a Twitter buddy a few weeks ago, who sent me a photo of some extremely chic riding boots she was trying on in Matchesfashion. “What do you think?’ she asked. “OMG, where from? Buy them!” I insisted. I had no idea who Legres were then, but now I do.

It’s an anonymous ‘London-based collective that works with traditional Italian artisans to create timeless footwear staples’, according to the Matchesfashion blurb and it’s oh so very me! (more…)