27 January, 2023

More on floopy Birkins and not-so-pristine status bags

Floopy Birkin Mary Kate Olsen

‘Floopy’ Birkins are in the news again.

Last year I noticed the move towards not-so-pristine heritage handbags, the kind that look like they’ve been inherited from a wealthy aunt rather than bought box fresh from Luxury Promise. Vogue Business (pay wall) has dug deeper into the phenomenon with new stats from The RealReal that show people are buying visibly lived-in Hermès Birkins and Chanel Double Flaps at a lower price than the ‘mint’ standard usually expected on vintage sites. In the past, luxury resale sites wouldn’t really entertain shabbily treated luxury bags, so it’s very revealing to note the shift.

According to The RealReal’s 2023 Luxury Consignment report, demand has doubled for luxury bags in ‘fair’ condition since the site started accepting them for resale last year. In a global cost of living crisis, it seems there’s still many a consumer who wants to flex a status bag. These lived-in luxuries provide a gateway for those consumers, letting them buy them for 33% less than their ‘perfect’ cousins. In the ‘fair’ condition category, unsurprisingly 60% of the market goes to heritage brands – Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermès and co.

As Milton Pedraza, CEO of the Luxury Institute commented in the FT while discussing the resilience of legacy brands and how they retain their perceived value in the current financial climate, “they’ve targeted a mindset, rather than a demographic. [And the mindset is] ‘Grandma (or Great-Grandma), can I borrow that Kelly bag?’”

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Mary-Kate Olsen
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, News, Online shopping, Trends Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, luxury, The RealReal, vintage

26 January, 2023

Bode just unveiled its vison for womenswear

Bode AW23 womenswear - Ssense

There was a big post-show buzz around the Bode AW23 show during men’s Fashion Week in Paris. For the first time. Emily revealed her ambition for womenswear; not a ‘feminised’ take on her menswear as one might expect but a fully realised vision that riffed off early 20th century glamour, incorporating familial storytelling (of course) and handcrafted embellishment.

It got rave reviews, although I felt the styling of the menswear was more eclectic. My highlights: an equestrian-themed applique jacket, hand-knit embroidered sweaters and gloves, a perfect shawl-collared tuxedo and the men’s T-bars and Mary Janes.

This vision of Bode brings a charming new flavour to the tradition of American narrative fashion – a more personal and artisanal alternative to Ralph Lauren, perhaps? See more here and here and details here.

Bode AW23

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Bode AW23 via SSense, Vogue Runway
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends AW23, Bode, menswear, Ralph Lauren, trends

19 January, 2023

Ideas to steal from Prada menswear AW23

Prada menswear fw23

The AW23 menswear collections are in full swing, and Prada got my attention with mod-sharp tailoring, kooky collars and my favourite narrow-trouser-big-shoe silhouette.

SB SUITS. Thank God for the return of the single-breasted jacket. I’m still on the hunt for one in the ocean of DB’s, so the two-or-three-button, slightly boxy fit is up my alley, especially teamed with ankle bone-grazing trousers.

SHARP AND SOFT. The cardigans with integrated – or detachable? – super pointy collars were an interesting styling touch. Who came up with this extremely lengthy collar first? Was it Lemaire? The Row? Perhaps it was Prada (or Raf) several seasons ago? No idea, but I like this mismatched styling device, as well as the combination of fuzzy cardigan with serious tailoring.

POWER TOTES. Structured, slightly asymmetrical totes are the new briefcase, complete with water bottle. I also love the high-shine leather neck bags (there must be a better name for these)…

BOY BAND HAIR. I can’t not mention the hair. Not in the show actually, but on the audience members. Specifically, K-pop boy band Enhypen’s Beatles-esque mop tops – and most notably, Jake’s wavy fringe.

SLIM PICKINGS. The high-waisted, slim trouser cut was impeccable and particularly noticeable in the graphic emerald and red colourways (good luck tucking in your jacket quite so immaculately). If you’re not feeling the Y2K bumster revival, think about a classic flat-front slim pant with a heavy-tread Derby shoe; I certainly will.

Prada menswear long collars AW23
Prada menswear AW23

Prada AW23 menswear bags

Jake Enhypen Prada aw23

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Prada menswear AW23
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends AW23, celebrities, Enhypen, menswear, Miuccia prada, Prada, Raf Simons, trends

12 January, 2023

Positive fashion: Nike Re-Creation

Nike Re-Creation upcycled patchwork sweats

Two new initiatives on my radar in the repair and re-wear space.

Nike’s Re-Creation project upcycles deadstock and used clothing into new, lovingly crafted pieces where stains and holes are creatively transformed or carefully camouflaged (below). It’s not an entirely unique approach – lots of small start-ups have used this method – but the execution is more in line with my taste. (more…)