Brands

SS22 trend report: Bodycon, but make it body positive



Acielle street style SS22

To get a real sense of next season trends, I like to look at Acielle’s (Aka Style Du Monde) Fashion Month street style photography. Not so much the super-peacock types, but the ones wearing denim with interesting tops and choice accessories. That’s the best way to see a more ‘everyperson’ way of wearing fashion.

My big takeaway for SS22 is the almost universal appetite for barely-there, bodycon and cutaway clothing. It was first evident to me at Collina Strada and Eckhaus Latta at New York Fashion Week. What was interesting about those designers’ treatments was the body positivity expression. Eckhaus Latta especially took a 1990s influence and added a decidedly inclusive 2020s interpretation (below).

Eckhaus Latta SS22 bodycon trend
Eckhaus Latta SS22
Eckhaus Latta SS22 embraces the bodycon trend

In London, it was mostly represented in the classic tall and thin trope, but very beautifully executed at Nensi Dojaka, who has arguably led this about-turn from oversized modesty-dressing ever since her first collection with Fashion East last year. For SS22 her signature spaghetti strap lingerie dresses and corsetry pieces are accompanied by immaculately finished tailoring that expresses a bold attitude.

Nensi Dojaka SS22
Nensi Dojaka SS22

But on the street is where we see the real looks play out. Granted, many of these are off-duty models, but here we see a decisive move to unclothe the midriff at any opportunity, bare the back, and show off the shoulders. As Fashion Month progresses, we’re seeing yet more bodycon, disco-tastic wear – at Fendi, Versace and even Prada for example – and off the runway I expect we will see it translated in gym-wear and even certain areas of menswear.

Why this, why now? I’m not sure but I’m guessing it’s a combination of Y2K mania (Christina Aguilera scarf tops, anyone?) and a reaction to finally being let out of our Covid cages. Young people especially want to reaffirm their existences and showing some skin is one way to do it.

To be continued…

Acielle street style SS22
Acielle street style SS22
Acielle street style SS22
Acielle street style SS22

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Acielle/Vogue; Eckhaus Latta/Vogue x 3; Nensi Dojaka/Vogue x 2; Acielle/Vogue x 4
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Yang Li is now creative director of Shang Xia



Yang Li Shang Xia

Great news for fans of Yang Li. He is now creative director of Shang Xia, the Chinese luxury brand founded in 2010 by Hermès and Qiong Er Jiang. Now majority owned by Italian holding company Exor, it will stage its first ever show at Paris Fashion Week on October 4th.

Until this point, Shang Xia has exemplified the quiet luxury vibe of Hermès, focusing on ‘good taste’ craftsmanship and style designed for longevity. But as hype culture accelerates in the luxury space, some wonder if we’ll now see the brand looking to attract a younger, cooler crowd. Definitely one to watch.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Yang Li for Shang Xia
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
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London Fashion Week: Margaret Howell SS22



Alas, no Margaret Howell SS22 show this LFW season so a showroom visit had to suffice. No great hardship there though, as the showroom is situated at the back of the beautiful Wigmore Street store. I averted my eyes from new season Shetland knits and cotton khakis to focus attention on the new collection. Recent seasons have seen Howell embracing slightly more adventurous proportions and styling cues, as well as more ‘editorial’-style photography. I love it. My top 5 takeaways…


ATHLETIC STYLING.
Athletic pieces that take influence from retro gym styling and fabrications. Particularly the dry loopback sweats that can only improve with age


BOXY MACS.
The Mackintosh short rubberised anoraks with oversized welt pockets. I love Mackintosh’s own outerwear, but these are a looser silhouette that allows for more layers to be worn underneath, an important consideration for our cold, damp spring season


TWISTED SCARVES.
Margaret Howell’s silk twill neckerchiefs are the stuff of legend. This season there’s a new twist – literally – in how they’re styled. YouTube tutorial needed…


BRIDLE LEATHER ACCESSORIES.
 
The best edit yet of SLGs (small leather goods); sturdy leather key holders, boxy camera bags and the most perfect trouser belts you’ll ever find. Plus, you’re nobody if you haven’t included a leather neck pouch or five in your collection.


VINTAGE-STYLE KNITS.
Utilitarian knits are a Margaret Howell mainstay. These are rugged and romantic with colours inspired by the natural UK landscape.

Margaret Howell SS22






WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Margaret Howell x 5; Navaz Batliwalla; Margaret Howell; Navaz Batliwalla; Margaret Howell x 2; Navaz Batliwalla
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to pre-order my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare Secrets



Trend report: What to wear for AW21



Gabriela Hearst AW21

New season, new trends! I don’t subscribe to big changes so I tend to look for second-time-around trends that suit my personal taste. (Much more manageable that way.) We’re all a bit more conscious about how we shop now so here’s a gentle reminder that you can probably just shop your existing closet for some of these. While there’s definitely a sense of ‘going out out‘ energy in the air, I’m more focused on the everyday wardrobe. So new denim silhouettes, elevated knits, hands-free bags and the perfect boots it is – with a little wellness and beauty newness included!


1/ WATCH BAES? IT’S TIME.
It’s taken a while, but classic women’s watches are having a moment. Recognised as timeless accessories rather than simply timekeepers, their popularity is being celebrated by watchfluencer platforms such as Hodinkee and Brynn Wallner’s Dimepiece. The secondary watch market is booming too, with The RealReal reporting high resale value for Cartier (below) and Patek Philippe. (more…)