The one show that dominated my NYFW social feeds? The Row AW20. One wag described it as “the same collection I’ve been seeing for the last six seasons.” No matter; its predictable self-assured minimalism and quiet tailoring offer something of a sartorial salve in troubled times. And after all, anti-fashion is the new Fashion. (Or something.) Highlights were the floor-nuzzling trench coats, collarless boxy jackets and full-legged pants. Plus more rollnecks layered under unadulterated shirting (also trending this season, fyi).
Also noteworthy at NYFW: Gabriela Hearst, aka ‘The American Hermes’; Debbie Harry singing ‘Dreaming’ at Coach (possibly even more exciting than the Jean-Michel Basquiat collab and the downtown eighties styling); and Marc Jacobs’ New York nostalgia dressed up in a contemporary dance-off…
IMAGES: The Row AW20
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While many say that commercial ‘seasons’ are redundant, I still get new season vibes just before Fashion Week. I think it makes me focused on the newness out there, plus the days are getting longer and I just want to let the light in my life, dammit!
However, new season to me rarely means a total ‘in then out’ about turn from the previous season. That kind of thinking has become outmoded lately anyway, as desirability has become “decoupled from consumption and coupled with knowledge, a story, belonging, and transformative potential to make us better humans.” Instead, this new season edit is an excuse to fill any gaps with updates rather than total novelty. Here’s what’s on my radar for SS20…
1/ UNDONE TRENCH. Trench coats for spring? Clearly not ground-breaking, but I like the new relaxed, slouchy macs and trenches, designed less for harsh weather and more for wearing undone whilst sipping a matcha latte al fresco. (more…)
A quick heads-up to say there’s now 50% off a lot of the Paul Smith sale* stuff, so if you fancy some signature tailoring, fine gauge knitwear or jazzy socks, then this is the place to go. For an extra 10% off the sale price, use the code EXTRA10 (until 10th Feb). (more…)
With the Tokyo Olympics happening this summer, the spotlight is firmly on Japan.
For starters, I’m looking forward to the V&A’sKimono: Kyoto to Catwalk exhibition, which opens on 29th February. With its vast archives, this is the kind of exhibition the V&A does really well, time travelling from rare 17th and 18th century kimono to contemporary streetwear via Kawakubo and Galliano – that’s got be good!
Meanwhile, Sunspel is also feeling the Japan love this spring, collaborating with three contemporary Japanese brands – 45R, N.Hoolywood and Beams – on a capsule collection of men’s and womenswear. I like this 45R interpretation of the Sunspel Sun and Cloud logo, using an indigo dye cloud placement on a white cotton tee (below). All products will be available in Sunspel*shops and online from 7th March. (more…)