Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.
Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)
Ten years ago I would have been all over the Sacai x Nike trainer collab (a kind of double-everything monster trainer with a retro vibe). Today? Not so much. I’m well over super-statement trainers and prefer a Nike Air Max shape or a utilitarian gym shoe like a Converse Jack Purcell. (Currently seeking a JP in white – why so elusive, Converse?)
However, I’m feeling the return of the luxe tan trainer, an understated gender-neutral number that kicks the post-ironic, hypebeast trainer roundly in the butt. Do you remember when Hermès did its first trainer? It was in 1998 and part of Martin Margiela’s first collection for the house. A rich conker brown affair, Hermès was the first luxury brand to design a trainer made entirely of leather and thus the ‘Quick’ caused quite the stir. (more…)
What do we think about no-fragrance fragrance? I’m really conscious when I wear full-bodied scents like Pomegranate Noir or Pardon that I don’t want to overpower people and at this time of year, I’m more drawn towards subtle woods and naturals. I think that might be where my musk obsession came from as well. I love smells that are like ‘skin’ scents, that you smell when you’re close to someone but it’s not trailing in their wake.
This sounds silly but I almost prefer the way my perfume smells at the end of the day, when it’s dried down to practically nothing. I think that’s where I’m coming from with the no-fragrance fragrance thing. (more…)
This summer’s twin fragrance obsessions are citrus and musk. I can’t get enough of either. My big citrus passion at the moment is Hermès Eau de Citron Noir (from £48 for 50ml), the latest addition to the Hermès colognes by in-house nose Christine Nagel. From the same family of cool citruses as Eau D’Orange Vert, it’s so juicy and delicious, I want to stick a straw in it and drink it. (more…)