Hermes

On my radar: citrus with a twist



Alex Katz Still Life with Lemons, 1955

London’s been hot lately and all I can think about is copious slices of lemon in my iced Pellegrino and endless top-ups of chilled Limonata.

It’s also the season for cooling citrus fragrances that transport you to the breezy coasts of Southern Italy. Acqua di Parma is forever the go-to for such escapist olfaction. It has just released its new Bergamotto la Spugnatura Eau de Parfum* in a blue sculptural-capped porcelain bottle designed by architectural designer, Laura Gonzalez (below).

The fragrance is my kind of citrus. Using an ancient artisanal technique that releases the essence of the bergamot peel using natural sea sponges, it opens with an initial cooling blast of bergamot and grapefruit that’s softened by a dry down of vetiver and cedarwood. After the initial spritz, the longevity isn’t that strong, which suits me – London is already an oppressive fug of oud and intense rose at this time of year, so I prefer this gentle woody yet refreshing skin scent. (Also, am I the only person who sprays a single – but firm – cloud of perfume and not several pumps?)
NEW Acqua di Parma Bergamotto La Spugnatura
Acqua di Parma Bergamotto La Spugnatura

Accompanying the EDP is the Acqua di Parma Bergamotto la Spugnatura Hair and Body Oil*, a more sensorial alternative to a perfume. I love the ritual of a body oil in summer, either in the morning post-shower or after sundown to use instead of perfume. And alongside Bergamotto, there’s the citrus-adjacent Blu Mediterraneo Fico di Amalfi Eau de Toilette* also in a new limited-edition Gonzalez-designed bottle, combining fig, citrus and cedarwood notes.

Or for the more gourmand-inclined, consider Acqua di Parma’s trio of delicious candles (below) leaning cool and milky rather than super-sweet; Sorbetto Al Limone*, Latte di Mandorla* (almond and iced milk – oh my!) and Granita al Gelso* (“mulberry and brioche with vanilla bourbon” – yes I’m drunk on the description).
Acqua di Parma gourmand scented candles

Other citruses of note, some new, some older. Tom Ford’s new Taormina Orange Eau de Parfum* is as juicy and sexy as you’d expect, tempered with a sophisticated twist of spicy cardamom oil. FYI: this one has staying power. Loewe has upgraded its Aire Sutileza Elixir Eau de Parfum* under new creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez with a high concentration of essential oils for stronger potency (below). The new version has the freshness of bergamot and lemon, the sharpness of pear plus a warm, grounding musk note.
Loewe Aire Sutileza Elixir Eau de Parfum

For me, Hermès colognes are frankly unsurpassable. Eau D’Orange Vert* and Eau de Citron Noir* are longstanding heatwave coolers, while their accompanying shower gels and soaps are essential duty-free reach-fors. Also for the shower, Arket’s Pomelo shower oil* is clean and refreshing with a side of cedarwood sweetness. And while not strictly citrus – but in the same outdoorsy summery wheelhouse – Dries van Noten’s new Basil and Hinoki Hand Cream* (below) is instantly uplifting, energising and comforting.
Dries van Noten Basil and Hinoki

What about you? Drop your citrus faves in the comments…

NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST (I MAY EARN A COMMISSION ON THE BASKET VALUE OF ITEMS BOUGHT*)…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:  Alex Katz Still Life with Lemons, 1955; Acqua di Parma x 3; Loewe; Dries van Noten
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here.

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare



Ode to a revitalising scarf



The Sartorialist

I said a few weeks ago that I didn’t think Michael Rider’s Celine would radically change the way we dress. I still don’t, other than I think he’s succeeding in shifting the tyranny of ‘quiet luxury’ into a more colourful direction.

And one key way he’s doing that is with the silk square scarf.

Formerly Hermès territory, the Celine scarf feels more sporty, vital and graphic. Hermès scarves can also be graphic but there’s often a lot going on in them. (Some have as many as 47 colours, requiring 47 engraving films, as I once discovered on an Hermès workshop tour.) My favourite Hermès scarves were always the geometric ones I loved the Sugimoto (below), Josef Albers (below) and Natalie Rich-Fernadez’s Delaunay-esque ones of a few years ago. (more…)



Coupling up (continued)



Tommy Ton double bag

In an era of post quiet luxury careful consumption, styling becomes all-important. Some say stylists were the unsung heroes of the recent menswear shows (I concur!) and they demonstrate plenty of ways to invigorate an existing wardrobe without extra outlay.

One of my favourite tricks is doubling up and I’m seeing this play out a lot on runways and IRL. I’ve already covered double shirts and the layered tees from Celine SS26. Some other easy multiples to consider…

Double belts are becoming a regular feature of Michael Rider’s Celine collections (below) and there’s also an argument for wearing a belt on naked skin, with another looser one over your clothes for an erotic charge à la Hermès in Harper’s Bazaar (more…)



Quote of the day: Véronique Nichanian



Véronique Nichanian Hermes AW26

“Last time, my team showed me something: ‘Do you see that? It’s so nice’. And I said, ‘Yes, I did that at Cerruti in 1988.’ So I think, okay, it’s time to stop when they’re bringing me my old things.”
Hermès men’s artistic director Véronique Nichanian on stepping down from the RTW role after 38 years, Business of Fashion

This ‘exit interview‘ is full of nuggets on how 71 year old Véronique Nichanian progressed from “tiny, shy and discreet” newbie at Cerruti (hand-picked by Nino Cerruti from college) to creating the Hermès men’s universe almost from scratch. While retiring from designing men’s RTW (the relentless pace is too much to be enjoyable), she’ll continue to consult on the maroquinerie and scarves. (more…)