menswear

On Timothée, the PCC and Darius Khondji



Timothée Chalamet in Raf Simons archive

A somewhat random post today. I was alerted last week to a special screening of Marty Supreme followed by a Q&A with Timothée Chalamet at the Prince Charles Cinema (aka the PCC, one of central London’s few remaining old-school indie cinemas). As I’d already seen the film I wasn’t tempted to go, but I thought wow, props to Timmy for carving out time to promote a tiny cinema who really needs the support.

Of course, I also thought, fuck me, you’re brave PCC! In order to buy a ticket, one had to be a PCC member and then try their luck booking online Glasto-style at an appointed time to secure a seat. What could possibly go wrong? Visions of hundreds of teens trying to bum rush the PCC website to  the Willy Wonka-esque goods had me sending thoughts and prayers to the PCC’s IT and PR teams in advance. And yes, in the event, despite shoring up its servers, the inevitable happened. At the crucial moment, the site crashed, people were beyond devastated and the PCC’s IG comment section went into meltdown. (more…)

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Quote of the day: Véronique Nichanian



Véronique Nichanian Hermes AW26

“Last time, my team showed me something: ‘Do you see that? It’s so nice’. And I said, ‘Yes, I did that at Cerruti in 1988.’ So I think, okay, it’s time to stop when they’re bringing me my old things.”
Hermès men’s artistic director Véronique Nichanian on stepping down from the RTW role after 38 years, Business of Fashion

This ‘exit interview‘ is full of nuggets on how 71 year old Véronique Nichanian progressed from “tiny, shy and discreet” newbie at Cerruti (hand-picked by Nino Cerruti from college) to creating the Hermès men’s universe almost from scratch. While retiring from designing men’s RTW (the relentless pace is too much to be enjoyable), she’ll continue to consult on the maroquinerie and scarves. (more…)

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On my radar: Soshiotsuki



Soshiostuki ss26

Congratulations to Soshi Otsuki, who just won the LVMH Prize.

Since launching as a menswear brand, Soshiotsuki, in 2015, his “distorted elegance” (also the name of his AW25 collection) in the tradition of Armani, Cerruti and even Studio Nicholson, now includes a number of women’s pieces.

To be specific, that means taking western men’s tailoring and filtering it through a Japanese lens – cardigan-soft fabrics, gentle gathering and draping, voluminous tailored trousers, enveloping knits – and juxtaposing them through careful styling. (more…)

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What to steal from Saint Laurent menswear SS26



Saint Laurent men SS26 by Thierry Chesnot

It feels like my favourite moments of Paris Fashion Week men’s were the colour-drenched ones. Willy Chavarria’s saturated pinks, blues and yellows, and Saint Laurent’s nostalgic 70s Fire Island palette felt like a welcome answer-back to the monopoly of Cucinelli-meets-Piana muted neutrals. Add to that, deliberately skew-whiff styling (messy shirt collars at Dior, chappals and trackies at Prada) and the juxtaposition of casual with formal and there’s plenty of inspo to steal from the menswear rail. What’s more, you don’t have to wait till next summer, you can implement many of these ideas now… (more…)

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