menswear

Armani, Armani, Ar-Ar-Armani



Alessandra Carlsson Beri Smither Harue Miyamoto for Emporio Armani by Peter Lindbergh 1989

Before The Row, Lemaire and Brunello Cucinelli, there was Calvin, Donna and best of all, Giorgio. A fabric meister, rigorous deconstructor (before Margiela), uber-minimalist yet (contrary to expectation) anti-perfectionist, Giorgio Armani is the godfather of what we now call ‘quiet luxury’.

Fantastic Man has a, well, fantastic deep dive on the man himself in its latest issue, as well as a mention of Made In Milan, Martin Scorsese’s 1990 mini-documentary, that gives us a delicious glimpse into Mr Armani’s influences and philosophies. (more…)



Joe McKenna x Zara AW23



Joe McKenna Zara menswear aw23

LOL. Joe McKenna is so simultaneously legendary and low key that his Zara menswear limited edition collab went completely under my radar. I just discovered it by chance (it launched a month ago) and it seems there’s plenty left online. (OK looks like he styled it, rather than ‘designed’ it, but still.)

Joe McKenna is the super-stylist who has worked extensively with Bruce Weber and Steven Meisel (another publicity-shy-yet-AAA-list image-maker who Zara persuaded to create a collection) and in his dim, distant past, also acted in Corrie (as you do). (more…)



Positive fashion: Curated reseller Marrkt just launched womenswear



Marrkt womenswear

Not sure if this is good or bad news. If you’re a selective shopper like me, then good news, I hope! Marrkt (I pronounce it ‘market’, Mr DRG insists on ‘marked’), the curated reseller platform that – until now – specialises in heritage-y menswear brands, has now added womenswear.

Its email blurb promises the likes of pre-loved APC, Comme des Garçons, Margaret Howell and Trickers, or as they put it, “classic, quirky, design- and quality-driven – less about the logo, more about the product.” (more…)



The culture of fashion: Pharrell x Louis Vuitton SS24



 Pharrell x Louis Vuitton ss24

All the Substacks and TikTokers have hit ‘post’ on their Pharrell x Louis Vuitton SS24 hot takes.

So, here’s mine.

I was expecting to hate the show and collection. (more…)