menswear

On Willy Chavarria SS26, refined subversion and a menswear succession moment



Willy Chavarria SS26

“I’m not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I’m interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one’s own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one’s personal intent — that’s power. That’s fashion.” Willy Chavarria, SS26

Boy, was I fortunate to see this quote in action last Friday, from my Paris menswear front row seat at Salle Pleyel. From the sober-but-powerful opening scene (to José Feliciano’s California Dreamin’) of 35 men in long white tees, shorts and socks, referencing the recent dehumanisation of U.S immigrants in Salvadoran prisons, the collection then went on to exuberantly reflect Chavarria’s personal exploration of identity, resistance and “refined subversion”. (more…)

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The aspirational familiarity of Lemaire and Auralee AW25



Auralee AW25

While the major fashion brands have seemingly gone nuts with their pricing, it makes sense that a certain demographic has shifted attention to Lemaire and Auralee. Both just showed at the menswear shows – precise (and practical) layering, easy-but-interesting silhouettes, harmonious colour palettes and distinctive accessories. Lemaire’s outerwear is particularly desirable with their gently exaggerated shoulders and I love the dopamine hits of red and green at Auralee (reminding me of Bally SS24). (more…)

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Celine Homme SS25: The Bright Young



Celine Homme SS25

I know it’s all about New York SS25 womenswear, but my head is in Paris SS25 menswear. Specifically Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine outing, ‘The Bright Young’. Shot in the manicured grounds of Holkham, Norfolk, Hedi Slimane is suggesting equally manicured, floppy-fringed, toff-chic in stripe-edged blazers, cashmere cricket whites, short shorts and red knee-high socks.

Some critics on The Fashion Spot complained that the English public* school sartorial references were too literal. But as someone around the same age as Hedi, I’d say it’s just an acknowledgement of an era you’re very familiar with and perhaps nostalgic for. (We could call it ‘Merchant-Ivory-core’). (more…)

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Inspiration board: Gucci super-skinny scarves



Gucci AW24 menswear

A scarf as a necklace. I like this styling detail from the Gucci AW24 menswear show*; a scarf-necklace hybrid, fastened with a chain instead of a knot.

This is a great styling tweak for upgrading a half-unbuttoned shirt or an oversize V-neck sweater. (more…)

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