Funny isn’t it, how quickly one adapts. In one season the media and public have flipped from hating Hedi’s take on Celine to kind of loving it.
When Hedi Slimane showed his first vision of new Celine, Phoebe Philo’s fan club were bereft. They swarmed to Vestiaire Collective to buy up whatever Phoebe-era #oldceline bags and shoes they could get their hands on, freaking out that her conceptual-lite aesthetic had been obliterated by evil Hedi in place of – the horror! – generic luxury tropes of the sort he’d previously produced at Saint Laurent.
Six months later though, they’ve calmed down and come round. (more…)
“Since Hedi [Slimane] started working in fashion, and in his photography even before that, he has always explored androgyny; he’s never drawn a strict gender distinction. Everyone has both a masculine and a feminine side. He wants both fields to have their own personality.”
Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.
Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)
Here’s the latest DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…
HEDI’S DEBUT AT CELINE
What are we to make of Celine 3.0? I loved Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme and Hedi at Saint Laurent, but I’m not sure how I feel about the exact same look at Celine. It all feels a bit… Sandro circa 2016 (which is kinder than the ‘H&M Divided’ comment on Insta). I did like the menswear though (which is actually unisex), and the women’s boots. (more…)