Michael Rider’s Celine Spring 26: first impressions are in
Sunday saw quite the buzz around the New New Celine show – the debut by Michael Rider, a well-liked alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Nicholas Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga and Polo Ralph Lauren.
The result was – quelle surprise! – an amalgam of Ralph, Phoebe’s Celine and Hedi’s Celine. What does that look like? Classic Ralph-like preppy-isms (camel coats, primary colours, blazers and rugby shirts), Phoebe-era scarves and bags, and Hedi’s cool factor in the skinny pants (hated those!) and indie-Oxbridge haircuts.
People at the show complained it looked messy and unfocussed. From watching Reels and the after-show coverage, I’m taking away that Rider is a merchandiser, not a designer’s designer. We won’t be getting any radical silhouette changes, but he knows how to pile on product and make accessories and luxury staples look desirable. No, I don’t think he will have the cultural relevance of Phoebe’s or Hedi’s Celine, but that’s not what he was hired for.
When you’re dealing in classics, styling counts. Hedi did it with his youthful casting, while Rider did it with the help of Brian Molloy. The sweater-over-blazer, off-kilter silk foulards and moody sunglasses all gave ‘French Vogue editor’ nonchalance (with a touch of L’Etiquette). I really liked those elements and could see myself in them. A fascinating titbit: Fashion Roadman reported that Hedi was rarely seen at the Celine factories, whereas Michael Rider has been going in deep at the R&D centre and into the archives. If that’s true, I like the idea of Celine’s classics being of the highest quality, because if not, you may as well go to J. Crew or vintage Ralph.
Overall, the collection has been somewhat polarising; one camp loves the commercial vibrancy, the other is miffed it’s not saying anything different. I think for a first collection it’s where it needs to be, and hopefully will take a few risks in good time.
What I loved: The energetic colour palette. Crease-front jeans. Expert scarf styling. Cropped leather bombers. Plus, the canopy of Celine-logo umbrellas – way to do clever branding.
What I didn’t love: The dresses – what happened here?! Skinny jodhpur-leggings – please, no.
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Celine Spring 26 by Michael Rider
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here
CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare
