designers

Trend report: What to steal from Dior men winter 2020



Kim Jones’ magic formula of collabs, couture techniques and club culture continues to hit the high notes for me. A few weeks after his Dior fall 2020 show, he presented his Dior winter 2020 at the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Where fall was casual, sporty and colour-saturated, winter is coolly majestic.


The key component for me was the dedication to the late London creative legend Judy Blame, a friend and inspiration to Jones. Blame was a highly influential stylist and jewellery designer, part of London’s hyper-creative 80s scene who also collaborated with Jones on his Louis Vuitton collections. Blame’s signature aesthetic was a bricolage approach to styling and design, crafting jolie-laide pieces from unexpectedly mundane objects (champagne corks! Safety pins!), or throwing on a jacket inside out. It was a precursor to today’s eco-conscious approach, although back in the 80s came from lack of resources rather than an eco-warrior stance.

I digress. This collection collaborated with the Judy Blame Trust to access the archives and take inspiration from his craft. So tailored outfits were accessorised with trouser jewellery designed by in-house director of Dior Men’s accessories Yoon Ahn; long, fluid shirts were layered under toile de jouy-style hand knits, and single earrings adorned earlobes. These are all looks I’d adopt in a heartbeat.

Dior menswear winter 2020 Vogue Runway trouser jewellery
Dior men winter 2020 toile de jouy sweater
Dior men winter 2020 MA1 Vogue Runway

As always, my standouts were the outerwear pieces; a fantastic camel coat lined in baby blue (a favourite Dior colour combo), numerous silk moiré macs, plus a satin MA1-style bomber that zipped up the back for a ‘cutaway’ option (above and below). Dior menswear is a huge hit with women and this is the piece I expect to see on Jones’ coterie of female fashion groupies. I want one badly.

Dior men winter 2020 Vogue Runway
Dior men winter 2020 MA1 By Acielle - Style Du Monde

Jones has made it his mission to inject a couture sensibility into his RTW menswear. While fall used a little-known Japanese marbling textile technique, winter took to the Dior vaults to unearth a 1969 Marc Bohan dress, whose sequin embroidery fed into the design of a spellbinding opera coat. Someone get this on Tilda Swinton’s back, immediately! If you’re into this sort of couture porn, then check out Dior’s textile consultant Edward Crutchley on Instagram, giving the lowdown – it’s a treat to watch.

Dior men winter 2020 Vogue Runway

The clothes were fantastic but it’s the overall package that makes this so special. The vibrant light show, graphic set design, Honey Dijon-scored soundtrack (Fleetwood Mac’s Big Love throughout) and speedy choreography gave this its energy and drama. My favourite finishing touch? Tiny metal press studs glued to the inner corners of the eyes by Peter Philips’ make-up team to suggest the humble treasures that were the tools of the trade of Jones’s muse. Genius.

Dior men winter 2020 beauty By Acielle - Style Du Monde

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Dior men winter 2020 by Acielle – Style Du Monde/Vogue Runway
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Positive fashion: first look at Zanini SS20



Zanini SS20

Zanini SS20 looks SO good! I’ve been reading this op-ed about Gucci’s incessant profit rises which have recently stalled. Have we OD’ed on merch and maximalism?

I don’t know if we should go full throttle for austerity minimalism but I think there could be a middle ground. And Zanini’s elevated classics might be it. Marco Zanini’s fabrics are developed exclusively for him, he pays minute attention to the details that define a silhouette (hello voluminous sleeves) and the styling is perfectly on point. Gotta be better than a logo tee, right?

Zanini SS20
Zanini SS20
Zanini Spring 2020
Zanini white suit

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Zanini SS20 / Vogue Runway
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman



On my radar: Marco Zanini, the label



Marco Zanini Fall 2019 ready to wear

Did you know Marco Zanini is back? One of my fave Italian designers (I loved his stuff for Halston and Rochas), his aesthetic is of the off-kilter, oversized Prada-Manuela-Pavesi-Marni variety.

Now with his own name above the door, so to speak, the Zanini AW19 collection reminds me of 1990s Italian Vogue shoots (more…)



Quote of the day: Marc Jacobs



Marc Jacobs by Irving Penn 2001

“A younger audience seeing things with fresh eyes isn’t looking for origin or reason. I always looked for origin. I wanted to know where the Adolfo tweed jacket came from. It came from Chanel. I wanted to know where the Chanel one came from. It came from a fisherman. I loved that. It was part of the seduction of anything. How did these things come to be? (more…)