designers

London Fashion Week AW19 – in brief(ish)



JW Anderson London Fashion Week AW19

This felt like an extremely polished London Fashion Week. Roksanda, JW Anderson, Victoria Beckham and particularly Mary Katrantzou showed mature, slick collections that nailed their individual DNAs. And while you expect the newbies to be a bit scrappier in their presentation, they too were impressively coherent.

I was blown away by Matty Bovan, who, assisted by Katie Grand’s crack styling team and a helping hand from Coach, delivered a super-sophisticated spectacle reminiscent of Westwood or Galliano. His USP is a very British artsy-craftsy take on knitwear that was bricolaged with crochet, ruffles and Liberty-print florals (more…)



Quote of the day: Séverine Merle



Séverine Merle, chief executive of Celine on the new menswear strategy

“Since Hedi [Slimane] started working in fashion, and in his photography even before that, he has always explored androgyny; he’s never drawn a strict gender distinction. Everyone has both a masculine and a feminine side. He wants both fields to have their own personality.”

Séverine Merle, chief executive of Celine, Financial Times (reg req). This is a great read on the new Celine menswear strategy. (more…)



Menswear aw19 trend report



Prada AW19 menswear

Quite often the menswear shows give a peek into what the womenswear shows will look like. Even more so if you like your womenswear on the non froufrou side. So here’s a primer to myself on the menswear AW19 highlights so far. Valentino, Prada, and Jil Sander had the best knits, Vetements, the most interesting concept, and Dior and Raf Simons the best accessories.

Vetements was really interesting to me. A commentary on the dark web, the hoodie-balaclava hybrids were creepy but also symbolic of people wanting to withdraw into themselves. (more…)



The magic of Malcolm McLaren



Malcolm McLaren

Happy Birthday Malcolm McLaren! The guy had his faults but he still stands as one of the most influential music and fashion innovators this country has ever seen. He brought punk, hip-hop, vogueing and world music to mass culture, as well as the utter gem that is Something’s Jumpin’ In Your Shirt (*sound ON!*) and the classic Double Dutch video (I’m desperate for an Ebonettes tee)…

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