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On my radar: Soshiotsuki



Soshiostuki ss26

Congratulations to Soshi Otsuki, who just won the LVMH Prize.

Since launching as a menswear brand, Soshiotsuki, in 2015, his “distorted elegance” (also the name of his AW25 collection) in the tradition of Armani, Cerruti and even Studio Nicholson, now includes a number of women’s pieces.

To be specific, that means taking western men’s tailoring and filtering it through a Japanese lens – cardigan-soft fabrics, gentle gathering and draping, voluminous tailored trousers, enveloping knits – and juxtaposing them through careful styling. (more…)



Random Recs: Jony Ive, Centre Commercial Outdoor, Gauthier Borsarello



Richard Avedon In The American West

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ JONY IVE’S SEXY AI. If anyone can make A.I sexy, maybe it’s Jony Ive, whose company IO is being sold to OpenAI to create desirable devices (think pendants, eyewear…) for the age of AGI (artificial general intelligence). Read more in the NYT (gift link). (more…)



Polly Mellen remembered



Polly Mellen

Thoughts and prayers to all the fashion journalists this week. I’m not sure what’s up with the planets but it’s been a whirlwind of arrivals, departures and confirmations.

The happy news is that Chanel has confirmed Matthieu Blazy as its next artistic director (following his successful three years at Bottega Veneta) and Bottega has confirmed Louise Trotter as Blazy’s replacement. Yes, I’m delighted!

The sad news is that John Galliano (AKA Johnny G – cute!) is departing Maison Margiela after ten years. Not sure where he goes next.

But very sad is the news that the incredible stylist and one of my fashion idols Polly Allen Mellen has died at the age of 100. (more…)



The culture of fashion: Go to the Nightclub with silk shirts on



Ibiza 89 book by Dave Swindells

As Ibiza season kicks in, I’m reposting my article for Faith Fanzine that was originally published in print last summer. It seems the heady, hedonistic days of 80s rave and club culture are never far from a fashion designer’s moodboard. As photographer and former Time Out clubs editor Dave Swindells celebrates his fourth print run of photobook, IBIZA 89 (above), we mused on what the scene symbolised and why it’s an eternal source of style inspo (more…)