designers

Hedi Slimane’s ‘age of indieness’ returns for Celine AW23



Celine AW23

“You can only be lucky enough to have one style, a style of your own that becomes a caricature of you, your own ‘sound. I’m probably synonymous [with] punk rock and indieness in fashion, beside being known for my androgynous models. I have been precisely this in fashion for more than 20 years. This is the caricature I gladly own.”
Hedi Slimane

Proof that if you just stand still and do your thing, fashion eventually catches up with you, Hedi Slimane is once again haute stuff. With revenue doubled since his arrival, Slimane’s recent LA Celine AW23 show (part fashion show, part ‘indie sleaze’ rock concert) unapologetically brought his own greatest hits front and centre. (more…)



Raf Simons is quitting his label



Raf Simons

Oof, I wasn’t expecting that. With a lone post on his IG, Raf Simons announced that after 27 years, he’s quitting his own label.

Say it ain’t so!

No concrete explanation has been given and responses have been varied, from “finally – because no one was buying it” to an outpouring of crying emojis (mine).

Of course, he’s continuing as co-creative director of Prada, which has led to some speculation that Raf is being groomed as Miuccia’s successor should she decide to retire. Others suggested maybe there’s a ‘second act’ to come. After all, his note ends on, “Forward always”. (more…)



Maureen Doherty, a good egg



Maureen Doherty Egg

“I’m not trying to make anything new. There’s so much pressure in fashion to every six months have this newness. When I opened Egg, I wanted it to be like a chair: well that’s OK for 10 years. It’s not for six months; it’s 10 years. I like the fact that it can be an heirloom.”
Egg founder, Maureen Doherty, Hole & Corner (more…)



The culture of fashion: Gold by Yves Saint Laurent exhibition



Loulou de la Falaise - Gold by Yves Saint Laurent exhibition

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum in avenue Marceau is fast becoming an essential part of the Paris Fashion Week itinerary. To coincide with this season’s shows, October 10th sees the opening of “Gold by Yves Saint Laurent“, a celebration of the ‘magical’ colour he used from his very first collection in 1962.

Alongside opulent sequin and lamé couture pieces, gilded accessories and objects, will be more than 300 pieces of jewellery designed by Saint Laurent muse and garconne icon, Loulou de la Falaise (above). Other highlights include rare perfume bottles, signature gold buttons (below) and surrealist finger jewellery by Claude Lalanne (below). (more…)