Good clothes
I’m a bit sick of celebs and Insta clickbait dominating fashion. Some of my favourite fashion month shows were perhaps not Internet-breakingly epic, but were just great for wearable wardrobe candy and ace styling inspo. Yes, fashion week is for Big Ideas but there’s also room for consistent beauty.
I loved the quietly dramatic staging and focused rigour of Saint Laurent. The precisely cut jumpsuits, trousers and patch pocket shirts! The singular colour palette! The gloves, red lip and those aviators! (Don’t we all have a pair somewhere? And a bullet of Rouge Pur Couture?) This collection hammered home the house codes so clearly and confidently, all that was missing was maybe Paloma Picasso and Betty Catroux on the runway.
Then to Carven SS24. Already getting plenty of appreciation, it was Louise Trotter’s debut as creative director. A kind of alter ego to Saint Laurent, I love this romantic but cool gentlewoman vibe. Fabulous layered styling (courtesy of Suzanne Koller) with sheer, gauzy skirts placed over shiny macs, encircled by finger span leather belts. Do try to watch it in motion. (Mules too, but we’ll give those a pass for now.)
The mint banana-sleeved cocktail cagoule was a highlight, as well as an equally lush pale gold satin draped skirt. The simple pendants on a leather cord were just enough adornment, as was the make-up – a wash of pastel on the eyelid.
As with Saint Laurent, this too was focused and assured. “I wanted to take the approach of less is more, really focus on what I wanted to say, and to create the silhouette and the woman,” Trotter told Vogue of her softly-softly reboot. “For sure we want to build, and we want to be a strong and big house; we don’t want to be niche. But we will take our time; we’ll do it carefully. I want to bring my woman to the house, and I think that’s really where I am right now.”
WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Saint Laurent SS24; Carven SS24/Vogue
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here
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6 October, 2023 @ 2:20 pm
I’m with you on this. Less is more. (Including less celeb-y, clickbait).