Chapeaus off to GQ’sRachel Tashjian, who wrote this very astute critique of Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine menswear collection. And the brand’s overall current appeal.
“His clothing is probably the most intelligently merchandised stuff on the planet. He is making clothes to sell them, proving with every one of his choices why you need them…When you go into a Celine shop, or look at the brand’s e-commerce, you see something so clear and intelligent it might make you mad at other big fashion brands: a few perfect blazers, a leather motorcycle jacket, a leather blouson, a suede trucker jacket, and so on. All the pants are just right. The loafers, sneakers, and boots are just the kind you’re looking for when you don’t know what you’re looking for. Slimane is actually thinking about someone going into a store to buy clothing. What might they want?” (more…)
Some exciting news on the designer front. Pieter Mulier, the one-time secret weapon of Raf Simons (who can forget his stand out supporting role in Dior & I?) has been appointed creative director at Alaïa.
This sounds like an excellent appointment, with Mulier promising to retain Azzedine Alaïa’s “legacy of celebrating femininity and placing women at the heart of creation”, hopefully with a modern hand. I imagine Richemont will expect a big ROI with fulsome collections of clothes, accessories (and maybe even beauty?) but hopefully they can also find a way to imbue some of the slower pace Alaïa was known for with his ‘it comes when it comes’ schedules. (more…)
Can’t say I saw this coming. But maybe I should have.
Apparently, we’re about to see a wave of ironic yuppie dressing In the form of nostalgic backward glances to 80s power dressing via the wardrobe departments of The Crown, American Psycho and Wall Street.
While lockdown 1.0 had everyone (but me) wearing sweats and Birkenstocks, it seems young people are feeling deprived of the corporate armour they may never get to experience. (more…)
I can’t wait for Steve McQueen’s Small Axe series telling the Black British experience story, which starts on BBC tonight at 9pm. As a born and bred West London girl, I’m always interested to learn more about local history and this series hopes to be an important social history lesson for everyone.
Serious business aside, I will also be watching avidly for the style and music references. McQueen talks about some of them as part of his brilliant Observer New Review takeover. (more…)