Arket

Merch watch: are you consuming culture as a performative act?



The Gentlewoman x Arket tee

Rachel Cusk and Zadie Smith have become, in effect, literary brands — once their names are removed from the context of a book’s cover and placed on a hat or a tote bag.” Terry Nguyen, New York Times.

The merch machine refuses to die. In fact, I would argue it’s only just getting started. The New York Times recently published this article on literary merch, explaining the relatively new popularity of #litcore caps (and totes and tees) that show allegiance to revered writers while telegraphing the wearer’s (perceived) intellectual superiority. The Guardian calls this “consuming culture as a performative act”, while comedian Dan Rosen simply calls it “liberal cringe” (ouch #guilty).

It’s also rampant in media, with mainstream and niche publications going all out on taste signallers. (more…)



Found: the perfect white jeans*



Vogue Italia September 1991 - Carre Otis white jeans by Michael Roberts

White jeans have enjoyed a renaissance in recent seasons. Not so much the skinny hipsters of Y2K-era Liz Hurley, but a more forgiving straight leg or roomier boyfriend cut, ideally ending at the ankle to wear with boots, loafers or sandals.

If you’re tall, Studio Nicholson*, The Row*, Raey and Toteme* should fit the bill (if you have an equally capacious budget). But I think I’ve hit the white jean jackpot at Arket. Its Rose cropped straight jeans* (below) are a milky-white, mid-weight 100% organic cotton denim, with a higher-than average rise, straight-verging-on-barrelled silhouette and most importantly for the non-statuesque, they hit the right part of the ankle. (more…)



Shop the post: A very English summer



Margaret Howell SS23 ANNEMARIEKE VAN DRIMMELEN

High summer season in London – not always a great look. The tube is rammed with tourists and locals and the default girl-about-town uniform of Summer ’23 seems to be strappy mini slip dress layered over a less-than-pristine white tee, mashed-up 90s trainers (Stan Smiths, Converse, Reeboks) plus equally lived-in trainer socks. It’s aiming for a sort of Kate-Moss-by-Corrine-Day grungy romanticism but widely missing the mark.

The truth is, we do summer dressing far better when it’s a little bit cooler, when the layers are more knitwear-leaning and yes, when there’s a hint of hailstorm in the air. More Iris Palmer bucolic realness by Tim Walker circa 1996 if you will. (more…)



Shop the post: the useful and beautiful gift guide



Gift guide - Toast hot water bottle cover

Christmas shopping: so many decisions, so little time! If you’re struggling with keuzestress (aka ‘choice stress’), stick to the William Morris mantra of only choosing things that are useful and beautiful. (more…)