13 December, 2024

Polly Mellen remembered

Polly Mellen

Thoughts and prayers to all the fashion journalists this week. I’m not sure what’s up with the planets but it’s been a whirlwind of arrivals, departures and confirmations.

The happy news is that Chanel has confirmed Matthieu Blazy as its next artistic director (following his successful three years at Bottega Veneta) and Bottega has confirmed Louise Trotter as Blazy’s replacement. Yes, I’m delighted!

The sad news is that John Galliano (AKA Johnny G – cute!) is departing Maison Margiela after ten years. Not sure where he goes next.

But very sad is the news that the incredible stylist and one of my fashion idols Polly Allen Mellen has died at the age of 100. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, Films, News, Photography Bottega Veneta, brands, Business of Fashion, Chanel, Douglas Keeve, films, Hans Feurer, Helmut Newton, John Galliano, Louise Trotter, Matthieu Blazy, news, photography, Polly Mellen, Ron Galella

15 November, 2024

Trend report: What to wear for AW24

Shops are back! Cash is cool! Corporate-core is a vibe! It’s like the 2020s never happened lol. Sweats, leggings and Crocs have been demoted and tailoring and tactile tops have regained their position in the corner office for AW24. And with the global slowdown of luxury, we’re also witnessing the demise of loud logos on clothes and accessories. Instead, discreet luxury totes whisper subtle brand codes (the Toteme ‘T’!) and it’s grocery stores and ‘hypebeast snacks’ that are the new entry-level status signifiers. Oh, and high-end lipstick is the eternal ‘affordable luxury’ treat for uncertain times. Because some things never change… (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Beauty, Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Fashion shows, Films, News, Retail concepts, Shopping, Trends AW24, beauty, Dries Van Noten, exhibitions, Gucci, Lemaire, long read, Mouki Mou, Perfumer H, Prada, retail news, shopping, Sporty & Rich, Studio Nicholson, trends

30 October, 2024

The culture of fashion: Alex Michon, shy punk (part 1)

Alex Michon

In December 2020, I interviewed my friend, the artist, writer and a director of Transition Gallery, Alex Michon for an article for Bon Magazine called ‘Can what you wear change who you are?’ I could only feature a couple of her soundbites in the piece, but on recently rediscovering the transcript, I realised she had some incredible insights into a pivotal time for young women and their attitude to clothes and self-expression. I spoke to her about her years designing and making clothes (alongside her friend Krystyna Kolowska) for The Clash at the peak of their influence along with her own personal style metamorphosis as a reaction to living in 1970s Britain. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Design, Designers, Films, Menswear, Music, News Alex Michon, culture of fashion, design, Janette Beckman, Jeannette Lee, long read, music, Patti Smith, punk, The Clash, The Slits, youth culture

10 September, 2024

Celine Homme SS25: The Bright Young

Celine Homme SS25

I know it’s all about New York SS25 womenswear, but my head is in Paris SS25 menswear. Specifically Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine outing, ‘The Bright Young’. Shot in the manicured grounds of Holkham, Norfolk, Hedi Slimane is suggesting equally manicured, floppy-fringed, toff-chic in stripe-edged blazers, cashmere cricket whites, short shorts and red knee-high socks.

Some critics on The Fashion Spot complained that the English public* school sartorial references were too literal. But as someone around the same age as Hedi, I’d say it’s just an acknowledgement of an era you’re very familiar with and perhaps nostalgic for. (We could call it ‘Merchant-Ivory-core’). (more…)