Dior

Oh, Dior! Kim Jones is leaving, is Maria G-C next?



Kim Jones Dior mens winter 2019-2020

It’s official. After weeks of speculation, it’s been confirmed that Kim Jones is leaving Dior menswear after seven years.

I’ve really liked most of what Kim has done at LVMH (apart from Fendi – sorry!) and have routinely posted his Dior menswear shows here as he’s been an early adopter of using traditionally ‘feminine’ tropes in his collections, like certain couture techniques, styling tricks (brooches!), not to mention repopularising the women’s 1990s saddlebag for men.

His influence on contemporary fashion and pop culture from a wider perspective is indisputable. From art collabs (I’m still not over the Raymond Pettibon knits, below) to high-low fashion (Dior x Nike) and the overall celebrification of fashion, he’s certainly earned his recent Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur. His AW25 collection just shown in Paris was superb and classic Kim for Dior.

Below: Dior men winter 2020 x 2
Dior men winter 2020 MA1 Judy Blame
Kim Jones Dior men winter 2020 Judy Blame

Below: Dior mens AW19-20 Raymond Pettibon detail
Kim Jones Dior menswear aw19 Raymond Pettibon

Below: Dior Mens Resort 2022
Dior Mens Resort 2022

Along with the ‘Kim Jones is leaving Dior’ rumour, we’ve also had the ‘Maria Grazia Chiuri is leaving too’ narrative from insiders. This fuelled by further rumours that Jonathan Anderson is slated to exit Loewe to take over from both.

Dra-ma!

TBH, I don’t love all the public rumour discourse. (Yes, I get the irony.) I always feel it must add to the stress of designers trying to produce existing collections to know that the whole world knows they’re applying for a job. Does this not jeopardise their performance?! I guess you need balls of steel for this job. Kim Jones is rumoured to be going to Burberry next. I’d quite enjoy that, but I also like the idea of him and Jonathan taking a nice, long holiday. They both look like they could do with one.

To Maria G-C. I’d agree that her work at Dior has become somewhat repetitive. Some might call it consistent, and the consistency of those bestsellers served up every which way – book totes, logo slingbacks – is what has kept tills ringing quite nicely over the past few years. Dior’s revenues have nearly quadrupled under Chiuri, from €2.7 billion in 2018 to more than €9 billion in 2023.

Personally, I’ve enjoyed the ‘garconne’ moments the most, I’ll never get bored of boyish Bar jackets, socks and sandals and classic outerwear

Below: Dior AW17 couture
Maria Grazia Chiuri Dior AW17 couture

Below: Dior pre-fall 24
Maria Grazia Chiuri Dior pre-fall 24

Below: Dior AW23
Dior Maria Grazia Chiuri AW23 Greta Hofer

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Dior mens AW19-20; Dior men winter 2020 x 2; Dior mens AW19-20 Raymond Pettibon detail; Dior Mens Resort 2022; Dior AW17 couture; Dior pre-fall 24; Dior AW23
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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From LVMH to Inditex, cultural cachet is the key to fashion credibility



Peter Lindbergh Dior exhibition 2024

Fashion companies sponsoring major cultural events? Discuss…

It’s the summer of LVMH as the luxury conglomerate commandeers the Paris Olympics, not least the opening ceremony. Was it just me though who thought the OTT product placement was a bit much? Not to mention clenching at the sight of the dancers lugging monogrammed Louis Vuitton trunks down those slippery rain-lashed steps on the banks of the Seine. (Oh well, no doubt LVMH can afford the liability insurance.) (more…)



Hermès takes Manhattan



Hermes AW24 New York Theo Werner

My SS24 trend report picked up on the major appetite for leather, and of course Hermès comes top of the leather lust list.

Hermès just showed the second ‘chapter’ of its AW24 collection in New York – a seductive, cinematic portrayal of wearable-yet-sexy (for straight-laced Hermès) leather trousers, jumpsuits, outerwear and abundant Mapplethorpe-esque caps that some thought dominated the show, but I rather loved. (Once a stylist always a stylist.)

Dior paid a similar tribute to Manhattan recently (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Dior pre-fall 2024



Dior pre-fall 24

My favourite look from yesterday’s Dior pre-fall 24 show at the Brooklyn Museum is this leather all in one number (above).

Maria GC gets a ton of stick for her collections (please – enough with the logos and book bags!), but this was one of the stronger ones. Themed with a NY-Paris bent, it used Marlene Dietrich’s personal style – and friendship with Monsieur Dior – as its running thread, with garconne tailoring, calf-length beaded flapper dresses and oversized coats (more…)