films

Pieter Mulier to Maison Alaïa



Pieter Mulier creative director Alaïa ss22

Some exciting news on the designer front. Pieter Mulier, the one-time secret weapon of Raf Simons (who can forget his stand out supporting role in Dior & I?) has been appointed creative director at Alaïa.

This sounds like an excellent appointment, with Mulier promising to retain Azzedine Alaïa’s “legacy of celebrating femininity and placing women at the heart of creation”, hopefully with a modern hand. I imagine Richemont will expect a big ROI with fulsome collections of clothes, accessories (and maybe even beauty?) but hopefully they can also find a way to imbue some of the slower pace Alaïa was known for with his ‘it comes when it comes’ schedules. (more…)



Covid curveball: Gen Z is craving Wall Street style



Yasmin le Bon channelling Wall Street style in Elle France

Can’t say I saw this coming. But maybe I should have.

Apparently, we’re about to see a wave of ironic yuppie dressing In the form of nostalgic backward glances to 80s power dressing via the wardrobe departments of The Crown, American Psycho and Wall Street.

While lockdown 1.0 had everyone (but me) wearing sweats and Birkenstocks, it seems young people are feeling deprived of the corporate armour they may never get to experience. (more…)



The culture of fashion: Steve McQueen Small Axe series



Scene from Steve McQueen Small Axe series for the BBC

I can’t wait for Steve McQueen’s Small Axe series telling the Black British experience story, which starts on BBC tonight at 9pm. As a born and bred West London girl, I’m always interested to learn more about local history and this series hopes to be an important social history lesson for everyone.

Serious business aside, I will also be watching avidly for the style and music references. McQueen talks about some of them as part of his brilliant Observer New Review takeover. (more…)



Quote of the day: Douglas Keeve on Unzipped



Unzipped Isaac Mizrahi

“There were all these small designers who were kind of mad geniuses doing what they wanted, and it was about the beauty of [fashion]. And it went from creativity to commerce; now it’s all commerce—it’s all about numbers and [the] bottom line and focus groups. That’s what drives fashion now. It’s different worlds. It’s just different. It doesn’t mean there aren’t great people out there; it means that the business of fashion has superseded the art.” (more…)