Trend Report: What to wear for SS20

Arket pink trench

While many say that commercial ‘seasons’ are redundant, I still get new season vibes just before Fashion Week. I think it makes me focused on the newness out there, plus the days are getting longer and I just want to let the light in my life, dammit!

However, new season to me rarely means a total ‘in then out’ about turn from the previous season. That kind of thinking has become outmoded lately anyway, as desirability has become “decoupled from consumption and coupled with knowledge, a story, belonging, and transformative potential to make us better humans.” Instead, this new season edit is an excuse to fill any gaps with updates rather than total novelty. Here’s what’s on my radar for SS20…

1/ UNDONE TRENCH. Trench coats for spring? Clearly not ground-breaking, but I like the new relaxed, slouchy macs and trenches, designed less for harsh weather and more for wearing undone whilst sipping a matcha latte al fresco. The Row’s microfibre trench* has a soft, washed effect, while Arket’s candy pink trench (below) is like wearing an uplifting Instagram filter. I’m also digging the easy-breezy cuts of these coats (below) by Paul Smith and Auralee.
Arket pink trench
Paul Smith SS20
Auralee ss20

In the world of luxury, there’s been an eco and ethical backlash to leather, fur and exotic skins. PETA has completed its anti-fur campaign, considering its work there ‘done’ and is now doubling down on leather and wool. In response, Selfridges has banned exotic skins from its buy and there’s been a huge rise of people buying their classic leather bags on the resale market (e.g. Farfetch’s new pre-owned bag edit*). While luxury brands navigate this shift, I’ve noticed an uptick in canvas bags (albeit with leather trims). Not as hard-wearing as leather, obviously, and better suited to light summer use, I like these from Hunting Season* and Loewe*. This pre-loved Hermès Passe Passe 35 tote* is also great, as well as likely to hold its value if you decide to flip it for something else later. Or for the much more affordable option, I’ve just discovered these gems from Rue de Verneuil*.

I’m thinking how to evolve my short hair and I’m liking some of the feathery cuts around. Ana Gimeno Brugada always nails this look, plus the Dries van Noten models are looking great as well. Screenshotted!!
Ana Gimeno Brugada hair
Dries van Noten

Double-breasted blazers have been kicking around for a good while. Seen at Dior men for a few seasons, we’re getting our own scaled-down versions from Celine, Givenchy and Proenza Schouler (scaled up in their case). Or for the no-frills workaday option, check out Whistles*.
Celine ss20 double breasted blazer
Givenchy ss20
Proenza Schouler ss20

. If you’re planning to park the puffer for spring, but feel like you still need some sort of armour to battle the slings and arrows, then an oversized hoodie serves as a fitting piece of combat-wear. I like these graphic Burberry striped hoodies (below) and I’ve been living in my navy men’s Agnes b hoodie this winter (half price here). Personally I’m big a fan of the hoodie under blazer look, a la Linda V Wright. Italic, the factory-to-consumer brand that specialises in classics (I mentioned them in last spring’s trend round-up) have a classic black ‘Weekend Hoodie’ for $50 – remember to size up.
Burberry ss20

. Shoe-wise, I’ve been looking at mid-heels. I feel like we’ve reached peak trainer but I don’t relish the return of Tribute heels. So I quite like these walkable Almond pumps from Bottega Veneta* and the chunky-heeled sling backs from Gianvito Rossi* – a good match with an ankle-swinging straight leg jean*.

. New beauty texture alert! I think this has come from Japan (please correct me if I’m wrong); it’s an unctuous, super-thick jelly texture cleanser that’s very satisfying for an end-of-day makeup remover cleanse. Glossier’s Milky Jelly cleanser is my current rave, and I’ve heard good things about Beauty Pie’s Japanfusion* gel-to-oil-to-milk cleanser. New to market is Ren’s Perfect Canvas Jelly cleanser, while Chanel’s Sublimage gel-to-oil cleanser* (£85, below) is on the fantasy cleanser list for when I win the lottery.
Chanel Sublimage gel-to-oil cleanser

. A no-frills shirt is never a bad move. I like the starched look at the moment, especially a bit on the big side. Unbuttoned over a roll neck is another good look, nailed by The Row (below). Arket’s pink twill overshirt* and combats combo (below) is a good alternative to white. And I’d love to see a minimalist version of this Caroline Herrera stick-of-rock stripe (below).
The Row ss20
Arket pocket shirt
Caroline Herrera ss20 stripe shirts

To accompany the unadulterated shirt, I’m into the idea of a chunky chain or two. Sophie Buhai (below) remains the queen of minimalist chain-wear, while Bottega Veneta*, Stvdio* and Versace* (bottom) are also on my radar. Amp up your white pocket shirt with a Pomellato gold bracelet* and a maximalist Panthère de Cartier* cuff watch if you think you’re hard enough…
Sophie Buhai chain bracelet
Versace chunky chain bracelet

10/ LE BEAUTY OBJET. The Hermès lipstick line drops on March 4th and I’m as excited about the accompanying accessories as I am about the Pierre Hardy-designed clunk-click casing. To elevate the Hermès lipstick experience just that bit more, there are two leather lipstick cases, including this calf skin pop-up lipstick case in vibrant vermillion (below) and a sibling case with an integrated mirror. I think we’re going to see more of this upscale lipstick-as-luxury-beauty-accessory trend, now that no-one seems to balk at £40+ lipsticks. (Note: the Hermès lipsticks are refillable, so in theory you only pay the ‘full’ price once.) (Full disclosure: I’m still not over the Valentino lipstick minaudiere from 2017.)
Hermes pop up leather lipstick case


WORDS: Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: Arket x 2; Paul Smith; Auralee; Ana Gimeno Brugada; Dries van Noten; Celine, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Burberry; Chanel, The Row; Arket; Caroline Herrera; Sophie Buhai; Versace; Hermès beauty x 2
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Everything Japan: J-Wellness, Terahaku, Yasuko Takahashi and more

David Bowie and stylist Yasuko Takahashi

With the Tokyo Olympics happening this summer, the spotlight is firmly on Japan.

For starters, I’m looking forward to the V&A’s Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk exhibition, which opens on 29th February. With its vast archives, this is the kind of exhibition the V&A does really well, time travelling from rare 17th and 18th century kimono to contemporary streetwear via Kawakubo and Galliano – that’s got be good!

Meanwhile, Sunspel is also feeling the Japan love this spring, collaborating with three contemporary Japanese brands – 45R, N.Hoolywood and Beams – on a capsule collection of men’s and womenswear. I like this 45R interpretation of the Sunspel Sun and Cloud logo, using an indigo dye cloud placement on a white cotton tee (below). All products will be available in Sunspel* shops and online from 7th March. (more…)

Elevated oral care: the Quip overnight toothbrush

Annemarieke van Drimmelen

Jonathan Margolis at How To Spend It is my tech critic of choice, and it turns out he’s also become its unofficial toothbrush critic. If he says this Quip toothbrush is good, then it must be. I usually use an Oral-B or ION-Sei electric toothbrush but don’t want to carry all that bulk if I’m travelling or doing an overnight stay. So then I usually take a bog standard toothbrush but feel it’s doing a substandard job. Quip solves this problem. It’s slender and fuss-free and works with a simple AAA battery to get the required power-brushing I like, without the chargers and plugs. Buy it here*. (more…)

Retail round-up: Lunar New Year airport pop-ups are a data-capture gift to beauty retailers

Lancome Renovated Absolue Cushion

DFNI associate editor, ALISON FARRINGTON reports on the travel retail beauty opportunity for Chinese New Year

Chinese New Year is upon us and travel retailers across Asia have been creating special promotions designed to attract passengers for the biggest Chinese shopping opportunity of the year. Travel retail or duty free shoppers are big business. Often referred to as the ‘Sixth Continent’, in 2018 the global market was worth $79bn.

Beauty remains the biggest and fastest-growing product sector in travel retail, while Asia Pacific is the category’s main growth driver. In 2018 the region saw beauty sales grow 23.5% to a total of $31.5bn. Beauty and fashion accessories are the biggest pull for Chinese travellers eager to snap up seasonal limited editions at the airport. This year’s theme is Year of the Rat (sometimes interpreted as a mouse) and we’ve seen brands adopting characterful themes such as Rocket Rat and even Mickey Mouse. (more…)