business of beauty

Business of beauty: Ami Colé for melanin-rich skinimalists



Ami Cole Skin-enhancing Tint

New on my radar: Ami Colé. This beauty brand caught my eye a few weeks ago on Violet Grey*, first for its clean branding and packaging, followed by the subtly enhancing products – tinted moisturisers*, barely-there highlighter* and non-ashy loose powders in a spectrum of inclusive shades.

Founded by New Yorker Diarrha N’Diaye-Mbaye, it’s a far cry from the matte full coverage and ‘baked’ concealer aesthetic of recent years and sits somewhere between Glossier’s barely-there look and the gentle 90s glamour of Naomi Campbell (or what TikTok calls ‘UK Black Girl Make-up‘. (more…)



Hermès Hermesistible lip oil gloss



Hermes Beauty Hermesistible lip oil gloss

Sales at Hermès are up 27% this quarter and 95% of that is attributed to its £58 lipsticks.

I jest of course! And yet, quite when it became normal to sell lipstick and lip gloss for over £40 I’m not sure. I feel like it wasn’t that long ago that Tom Ford’s £36 lipsticks were a Big Deal. Maybe the lipstick index is real after all. John Lewis is selling the new Hermès Hermèsistible Infused Care lip oil* for £44 and I do agree it looks sublime, but still. (more…)



How personalised skincare schemes like Renude are reinventing the business of beauty subscriptions



 Renude skincare subscription service

A trend that was already on the up pre-Covid has exploded in the last year or so. Beauty subscription schemes have evolved beyond product edits and sampling boxes (although those are still going great guns – hello Liberty The Beauty Drop*) to genuinely useful services that save time and money. Specifically: skincare subscriptions.

Thanks to an overall trend in which skincare has become part of the self-care canon (one of the premises of my book, Face Values), start-up founders have spotted a market for people who are interested in the benefits of skincare, but overwhelmed by products and advice. (more…)



Trend Report: what to wear for SS22



CHANEL SS22 by Christina Fragkou

What’s new in fashion? Nothing much! What’s being reprised, updated, revamped, remixed? Loads. This spring it’s mostly about rehashing the 90s and 00s and what’s kind of scary is that ‘the 90s’ is now officially retro in the way the 50s was for me. It’s really quite terrifying interesting to see. (more…)