business of beauty

Retail round-up: Lunar New Year airport pop-ups are a data-capture gift to beauty retailers



Lancome Renovated Absolue Cushion

DFNI associate editor, ALISON FARRINGTON reports on the travel retail beauty opportunity for Chinese New Year

Chinese New Year is upon us and travel retailers across Asia have been creating special promotions designed to attract passengers for the biggest Chinese shopping opportunity of the year. Travel retail or duty free shoppers are big business. Often referred to as the ‘Sixth Continent’, in 2018 the global market was worth $79bn.

Beauty remains the biggest and fastest-growing product sector in travel retail, while Asia Pacific is the category’s main growth driver. In 2018 the region saw beauty sales grow 23.5% to a total of $31.5bn. Beauty and fashion accessories are the biggest pull for Chinese travellers eager to snap up seasonal limited editions at the airport. This year’s theme is Year of the Rat (sometimes interpreted as a mouse) and we’ve seen brands adopting characterful themes such as Rocket Rat and even Mickey Mouse. (more…)



Business of beauty: First look at Hermès make-up



Hermes make-up launches with lipstick

First look at Hermès make-up – and it’s very covetable.

Back in March 2019, Hermès announced it would be launching beauty this year. By some sort of spooky telepathy, I happened to email the PR yesterday to check in on the launch date. It’s launching in March, she said. And that was it. Today, WSJ has a bit more news. Hermès is launching Rouge Hermès, a line of 24 refillable lipsticks, in two finishes, a satin and a matte. They will be lightly fragranced with a custom blended scent created by Hermès perfumer, Christine Nagel.

I’m loving the traditional-meets-modern vibe. On the one hand it’s a classic bullet lipstick, not an ‘ink’, oil, or liquid. On the other, it’s an eco-conscious refillable concept in the vein of La Bouche Rouge (more…)



Gentlewoman style: French boy brows



Boy de Chanel French boy brows

Somehow I missed the news that Boy de Chanel*, the men’s make-up line had launched here in the summer. I knew it had launched in South Korea last year, but hadn’t clocked it in any London stores. But I spotted it in the St Pancras Station Chanel beauty boutique recently, so got a good close up look.

The collection is a small one, consisting of a tinted fluid in four shades, a matte lip balm and four shades of brow pencil. (more…)



High Street fragrance update: Zara X Jo Malone, Urban Outfitters, M&S, Glossier



Glossier You EDP

I just noticed that the Urban Outfitters Gourmand fragrances* that I raved about a couple of years ago (below) are back in stock. I assumed they had been discontinued. I get a lot of traffic from searches on this fragrance line, which isn’t that surprising; it’s £14 and very good. Sweet and marzipan-y if you like that ‘brunch-at-the-patisserie’ kind of smell, and the bottles are good looking too. (more…)