Events

Culture of Fashion: a look inside Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris



Yves Saint Laurent by Andy Warhol

A brief work trip to Paris a couple of weeks ago allowed me to experience the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Avenue Marceau, the former premises of YSL couture. Part of the 60th anniversary celebrations of Yves Saint Laurent, the latest exhibition, ‘Yves Saint Laurent au 5, avenue Marceau’ focuses on the archives and know-how of the designer and his coterie of technical specialists and as such is just a joy for process nerds.

From the first few rooms of sketches, through to rooms showcasing couture patterns, toiles, hat blocks, Polaroids and more sketches, you arrive at my favourite exhibit, a time capsule of Saint Laurent’s Studio, complete with reference books, fabrics, desk ephemera and other design essentials. A video shows him in situ, highlighting the exacting scene that you’re standing in front of.

Short videos towards the end of the exhibition show filmed conversations with his inner circle of designers and stylists. From these you get a real sense of the creativity and specificity of Saint Laurent’s vision and subsequently, a clue to his enduring success.

Top: Yves Saint Laurent by Andy Warhol

Below: The original gouache intertwined YSL logo designed by French-Ukrainian designer Adolphe Mouron Cassandre in 1961
YSL logo designed by Adolphe Mouron Cassandre

Walls of Saint Laurent’s design sketches, famed for their energetic verve
Saint Laurent’s design sketches
Yves Saint Laurent sketch

Canvas patterns on display alongside their corresponding envelopes (also containing sketches and fabric swatches), numbered and annotated by the heads of the ateliers
YSL canvas patterns
YSL patterns on display annotated by the heads of atelier

A room of hat blocks
A room of YSL hat blocks at Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris
YSL hat sketches

Toiles of Saint Laurent’s 1988 Cubist collection, a tribute to to Georges Braque
Toiles of Saint Laurent’s 1988 Cubist collection
Toiles of Saint Laurent’s 1988 Cubist collection
Sketches of Saint Laurent’s 1988 Cubist collection

My favourite part – the Studio preserved in its original spot, complete with books, desk ephemera and dog bowl on the floor (you’re not allowed to cross that white line)
Yves Saint Laurent design Studio

book shelves in the Yves Saint Laurent design Studio

Embroidery samples
YSL embroidery designs

Polaroids used to document ‘looks’ for the shows
YSL Polaroids used to document looks for the shows

Yves Saint Laurent au 5, avenue Marceau
is at Musée Yves Saint Laurent until 18th September. See more and book tickets here.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris by Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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R.I.P. Ron Galella and the true celebrity age



Jackie Onassis and Ron Galella

A sad farewell to celebrity photographer Ron Galella who died last Saturday at the age of 91.

I’m not a celebrity follower. In the famous-for-15-minutes age of the last 20-odd years I’ve actively avoided celeb content as the barriers to entry lowered and any old nobody could achieve notoriety thanks to reality TV and social media (more…)



Ideas to steal from menswear aw22 street style



Acielle Style Du Monde Paris AW22 street style

Wow, menswear fashion week street style has moved on from the days of Pitti peacocks strutting in suits and monk-strap shoes. This season’s street style is as out there as you like, with mega oversized proportions (skinny jeans? We don’t know her!), clashing colours, skirts aplenty (layered over trousers) and supersized footwear, whether that’s chunky technical trainers or Rick Owens’ cult platforms*. (Do not talk to me about Crocs).

I’ve picked out the more subdued examples from Acielle’s beautiful shots. Key trends: visible-from-Mars MA1s and puffers (but more glam than gorpcore), elevated utilitarian headgear (balaclavas, bucket hats, beanies in outré colours and proportions), cross-body pouches (again, in the boldest, brightest interpretations) and most unexpected – neck ties!

It’s kind of great to see men taking so many risks with their style, even though in many cases it looks like a hot, uncoordinated mess. Wait, haute mess is a thing? Oh, that’s OK then…

Acielle Style Du Monde PARIS AW22 street style
Acielle Style Du Monde PARIS AW22 street style
Acielle Style Du Monde Milan AW22 street style
Acielle Style Du Monde Paris street style AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde MILAN Street style AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde Paris street style AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde Paris AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde Paris street style AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde PARIS AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde MILAN AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde Paris AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde MILAN AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde MILAN AW22
Acielle Style Du Monde MILAN AW22

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Acielle
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare



Did blogs change the fashion industry?



blogs in Vogue

Sad but true, blogging is considered something of a retro curiosity. Now that everything 2000s is trending, we’re seeing quite a few nostalgic deep dives into the early days of fashion blogs, aka the grass roots movement that upended the publishing industry.

Vogue US has a podcast here, which uncovers the anonymous online identity years, the democratisation of fashion shows and early Fashion Week street style (throw back to that time Tommy Ton’s team mobbed my friend at LFW for a photo of a hole in his sleeve!). (more…)