Business of Fashion

Jil Sander SS19 – seen but not heard



Jil Sander SS19

Vogue reports that Jil Sander SS19 took its trouser suit cues from the military, the artist’s studio and sports uniforms. I think there’s still plenty of mileage in the boxy, Celine-esque silhouette that’s dominated this decade. Women really seem to like its comfort factor and it aligns with the gender fluid movement perfectly. The Vogue review ends with a caveat that designers Luke and Lucie Meier (now in their third season at Jil Sander) still have some way to go to revive the label.

I think this is a PR thing. (more…)



Culture and community – how skate brands win at retail



Oktyabr multibrand skate shop in Moscow conceived by upstart brand Rassvet - Pic by Hypebeast

The skatewear industry is one of the few niches managing to circumnavigate the plummeting shifting bricks and mortar retail landscape. Last weekend I went to Soho’s Brewer Street to witness the annual pop-up tour from Basement Approved, an online streetwear community that has evolved into a 360 proposition of physical merch, parties and pop-ups. Outside the appointed retail unit, a small gathering of scruffy-beautiful skate kids milled about guzzling Red Stripe and doing whatever young people do on their phones these days. (more…)



Dries van Noten has sold to Puig



Dries van Noten AW18 by Sonny Vandevelde

My WhatsApp has been abuzz with the news that Dries van Noten has sold a majority share of his company to Spanish luxury group, Puig.

Dries has famously said that he loves the size of his company, having independent control and isn’t interested in vast expansion. He is respected for not pandering to the fast cycle of fashion and arguably, the appeal of his clothes is that they’re designed with an individual point of view, they age with you and become part of your look. (more…)



Next-gen luxury – all change at the top



Off-White X Rimowa clear case

It will be interesting to see the evolution of legacy luxury houses as a new generation of company leaders takes over. Rimowa (now owned by LVMH) has placed 26-year-old Alexandre Arnault (son of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault) at its helm and is already attracting millennials with its recent Supreme and Off-White collabs (I quite like the Off-White see-thru case). LVMH also just installed another son, Antoine Arnault in a role managing image and communication for the conglomerate.

And news just in, Miuccia Prada’s 30-year-old racing driver son, Lorenzo Bertelli joined Prada last September as head of digital communications. (more…)