Business of Fashion

Shop the pot: A new Raf-ccia uniform at Prada SS21



Prada ss21

“A uniform is something that makes you feel able to think. You have to feel well, so that you are able to think.” Miuccia Prada

I wrote my fashion college dissertation on uniforms so the ‘New Prada’ SS21 collection from Miuccia and Raf was right up my strada. Specifically it took its cue from Miuccia Prada’s own uniform of skirt-sweater-kitten-heels, spliced with Raf Simons’ street sensibility. So, circle skirts with slouchy sweaters, hoodies and hole-gouged tops, 90s two-pieces of shell tops and long-legged pants, and couture coats fashioned from Re-nylon (aka fabric du jour, upcycled nylon). (more…)



Gentlewoman style: Aimé launches its own fashion line



Aimé London shirt collection

A new collection from a long-running retailer.

Aimé is a bit of a local secret in Notting Hill; the go-to destination for the likes of A.P.C and Isabel Marant for the yummy mummies of the late 90s before the rest of the world Westbourne Grove caught up. Now the Parisian garconne look is a global style trope and Aimé wants to design the uniform. (more…)



Quote of the day: Douglas Keeve on Unzipped



Unzipped Isaac Mizrahi

“There were all these small designers who were kind of mad geniuses doing what they wanted, and it was about the beauty of [fashion]. And it went from creativity to commerce; now it’s all commerce—it’s all about numbers and [the] bottom line and focus groups. That’s what drives fashion now. It’s different worlds. It’s just different. It doesn’t mean there aren’t great people out there; it means that the business of fashion has superseded the art.” (more…)



On digital fashion weeks, craft and context



Loewe SS21 menswear

I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.

An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.

Two standout videos I’ve enjoyed – Berluti and Loewe. (more…)