Business of Fashion

Bulk buy and long tail – can Wardrobe NYC work?



Wardrobe NYC capsule wardrobe puffa


Wardrobe NYC
, a new concept for fashion, works by delivering pieces in ‘packs’ rather than individually. So rather than buying a jacket or a top, you’re committed to buying a bulk set of clothes that work together.

Crucially, the design is immaculately considered for the fad-averse gentlewoman (or man) who just wants good clothes. Behind the concept are Australian designer Josh Goot and Louis Vuitton stylist Christine Centenera. (more…)



Quote of the day: Séverine Merle



Séverine Merle, chief executive of Celine on the new menswear strategy

“Since Hedi [Slimane] started working in fashion, and in his photography even before that, he has always explored androgyny; he’s never drawn a strict gender distinction. Everyone has both a masculine and a feminine side. He wants both fields to have their own personality.”

Séverine Merle, chief executive of Celine, Financial Times (reg req). This is a great read on the new Celine menswear strategy. (more…)



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein :(



Raf Simons leaves Calvin Klein

Yes, it’s true. In news that most fashion insiders saw coming, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways.

It all started promisingly, with Raf’s arty Americana-themed debut well received by critics back in 2016. High points for me were the American quilts, Warhol collaborations, Western-influenced denim and those off-beat balaclavas. The Kardashians campaign lost me a bit and may well have been the point where Raf realised, maybe he wasn’t cut out for this level of commerciality. (more…)



Gabriela Hearst at Net-a-Porter – hype commerce for the chic set



Gabriela Hearst Patsy bag Tamu McPherson

Net-a-Porter is embracing hype commerce with gusto, and I’m conflicted!

These short-term ‘online pop-ups’ are a way to get people shopping instantly (deliberate and be prepared to kick yourself later), a kind of fast fashion for the luxury brigade. I’m generally against that mindless consumption behaviour, but hear me out!

Net-a-Porter’s latest pop-up is from Gabriela Hearst, whose tailoring is widely coveted by the kind of cool executive women who also love The Row, Celine Phoebe Philo and Hermes. But this is all about her bags. (more…)