“Since Hedi [Slimane] started working in fashion, and in his photography even before that, he has always explored androgyny; he’s never drawn a strict gender distinction. Everyone has both a masculine and a feminine side. He wants both fields to have their own personality.”
Yes, it’s true. In news that most fashion insiders saw coming, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein are parting ways.
It all started promisingly, with Raf’s arty Americana-themed debut well received by critics back in 2016. High points for me were the American quilts, Warhol collaborations, Western-influenced denimand those off-beat balaclavas. The Kardashians campaign lost me a bit and may well have been the point where Raf realised, maybe he wasn’t cut out for this level of commerciality. (more…)
Net-a-Porter is embracing hype commerce with gusto, and I’m conflicted!
These short-term ‘online pop-ups’ are a way to get people shopping instantly (deliberate and be prepared to kick yourself later), a kind of fast fashion for the luxury brigade. I’m generally against that mindless consumption behaviour, but hear me out!
Net-a-Porter’s latest pop-up is from GabrielaHearst, whose tailoring is widely coveted by the kind of cool executive women who also love The Row,Celine Phoebe Philo and Hermes. But this is all about her bags. (more…)
Vogue reports that Jil Sander SS19 took its trouser suit cues from the military, the artist’s studio and sports uniforms. I think there’s still plenty of mileage in the boxy, Celine-esque silhouette that’s dominated this decade. Women really seem to like its comfort factor and it aligns with the gender fluid movement perfectly. The Vogue review ends with a caveat that designers Luke and Lucie Meier (now in their third season at Jil Sander) still have some way to go to revive the label.