Bloggers

From the vaults: The end of public relations



Bon Magazine - Gatekeepers and the End of Public Relations by Navaz Batliwalla

I loved reading Lucy Maguire’s recent Vogue Business story on the changing face of fashion PR. 13 years ago I wrote a similar feature for BON Magazine on the changing face of PR and fashion weeks in the (then) new social media landscape. What’s funny is how things have changed and how things have stayed the same.

At the time, ‘Oscar PR Girl’ (aka Oscar de la Renta publicist Erika Bearman) and DKNY PR Girl’ (aka publicist Aliza Licht) were major influencers alongside Kelly Cutrone, a notoriously ball-breaking New York PR who had her own U.S reality TV show. I remember cold-emailing Kelly to ask if I could send over a few questions. I heard nothing until my phone suddenly rang one lunchtime and a voice at the other end bellowed, “Hi, this is Kelly Cutrone. You wanted to talk to me?”  As I was in the middle of something else and didn’t have my notes in front of me, I innocently asked if I might call her back the next day. “NO, THAT’S THANKSGIVING!” (more…)



Could Substack supersede Instagram in the race for affiliate clicks?



Liana Satenstein Neverworns Substack

It’s no secret that Instagram’s strategy is pushing video content over carefully curated fit pics. The result? OG influencers are feeling rejected and dejected. After 10 years of rapid-growth followings lapping up their fashion recommendations (and clicking on their affiliate links), it’s understandable that Instagram’s star tastemakers feel unceremoniously side-lined, not to mention concerned for their future earnings. And there’s not much they can do about it. To paraphrase Francis Fukuyama, it’s the algorithm, Stupid!

The solution appears to be a mass exodus to Substack. (more…)



Random recs: Herbert Levine, A.P.C quilts, “Portfolio” and more



Herbert Levine

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ What London teens wear. (A lot of BRANDY MELVILLE and the tube is their runway.) Via Biz Sherbert.

2/ PORTFOLIO. A 1983 docudrama following model Julie Wolfe as she begins her modelling career, starring Carol Alt, Pauline Porizkova, Steven Meisel, plus a fabulous Antonio Lopez scene. Via YouTube. (more…)



Random recs: Marc by Sofia, Bill Cunningham’s archive, a perfect high-neck V



Marc by Sofia

A few snippets of digital ephemera and IRL recommendations I’ve enjoyed lately…

1/ SOFIA COPPOLA has made a MARC JACOBS doc, which will be shown this month at the Venice Film Festival. I’m gagging for tons of 90s Marc footage, NGL

2/ BILL CUNNINGHAM’S archive is getting a permanent NYC home. His photographs, contact sheets and memorabilia will be housed at the New York Historical in Manhattan, to be readily available to researchers and scholars. First up, an exhibition of his “Evening Hours” charity gala photos later this year. Read more here. (more…)