trends

LVMH is backing cool jewels



Repossi Robert Mapplethorpe New York Times

An update from the world of fine jewellery. LVMH has quietly taken a majority stake in my favourite cult fine jewellery brand Repossi. According to Business of Fashion (paywall), LVMH (which owns Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chaumet and Bulgari) has upped its stake from 42 percent in 2015, to 69 percent in 2018. I’ve not heard much on the Repossi front lately, but BOF reports that it has been expanding its retail network, with shop-in-shops in Dubai, London and Doha, with New York and Tokyo to come.

I remember the London concession in Selfridges but don’t think it’s in the same spot, so I’m wondering if it’s moved to a smaller position or disappeared altogether. Much as I love the spare aesthetic of creative director Gaia Repossi, I’m wondering if jewellery customers prefer something a bit more decorative at the moment. (Side note: Gucci is launching fine jewellery in July.) Which might be timely for the latest Repossi launch, a collection inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe (above). Launching later this year, Repossi has collaborated with the Mapplethorpe estate on a 24-piece tribute collection that take cues from his trove of home-made talisman jewellery.

In related LVMH news, there’s been a huge media push this week from Francesca Amfitheatrof’s first Louis Vuitton fine jewellery collection.  Formerly of Tiffany (I loved her minimalist Tiffany T collection), her debut line of flower blossom rings and drop earrings is much more genteel and romantic (I’m trying not to use the word ‘feminine’!) than the architectural pieces I expected.

Again, it suggests that maybe market trends are moving in that direction, away from the graphic, modernist pieces that define the ‘gentlewoman’ decade. Business of Fashion reports that the hard luxury market is growing fastest in Asia, whose nascent fine jewellery customers perhaps want to invest in more classic (read: unchallenging) pieces to start with. Just a thought. For me though, it’s all about those chunky chains with the square star-flower pendants…

Louis Vuitton fine Jewellery on model Signe Veiteberg
Louis Vuitton BBlossom fine jewellery Francesca Amfitheatrof
Louis Vuitton fine Jewellery

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Repossi/New York Times; Louis Vuitton fine jewellery
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Denim update: Chimala – Japanese do it better



Chimala Monroe Jeans

Further to my jeans post, I tried the 701s. Oh dear oh dear, what was I thinking? Great if you’re 7 feet tall, fugeddaboudit otherwise! The denim was nice though.

On the white 501s front, I bought a pair of the 501 cropped from Next of all places (first thing I’ve ever bought from Next I think!), because they had my size and they do click and collect. I have to say, the shopping experience was smooth and painless. The jeans are OK, not particularly cropped but I’ll just turn them up like I do my other ones. (more…)



Come to my panel talk – A Just Cause at The Pilgrm Hotel



Jacques Henri Lartigue

“We’ve been living in a world where packaging equals luxury. Now packaging equals waste. People don’t want it any more.” REN CEO, Arnaud Meysselle.

A radical shift is happening in beauty, fashion and, well, lifestyle generally. As REN CEO Arnaud Meysselle points out in The Guardian, consumers are waking up and smelling the (artisanal, transparently produced) coffee in a bid to live more considerately…

Which brings me to a panel event I’ll be moderating in a couple of weeks at The Pilgrm Hotel in Paddington. ‘A Just Cause’ brings together REN’s Arnaud Meysselle (of the above quote), Workshop Coffee CMO Richard Frazier, and Grenson owner and creative director, Tim Little to discuss their takes on cause and purpose and what they’re doing to champion the movement of responsibility. (more…)



Up close: Dior menswear AW19



Dior menswear aw19 Raymond Pettibon tabard

What a treat to get a close up look at the Raymond Pettibon pieces at the Dior menswear AW19 press day.

Kim Jones excelled himself with couture quality pieces adorned with Pettibon’s artwork including the spectacular embroidered tabard that wowed everyone at the show. You can see a close up below; the phrase, “with their own light and lash I have drawn them” is from an old Pettibon artwork. (more…)