Photography

Intimidated? You’re welcome



Sheila Rock Young Punks King's Road Jordan

An alternative thought to last Thursday’s post about the cosy conviviality of the Alaïa cafe-bookshop.

Reading Sheila Rock’s excellent 2020 photo book, Young Punks, her photo of the decidedly uninviting facade of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1976 SEX shop (above) revealed an audacious weirdness with intimidating appeal that lured people in out of sheer curiosity.

Sex Pistols bassist Glen Matlock said that the plywood, rubber latex and plastic sheeting sign was meant to look like a Robert Rauschenberg sculpture (those art school kids!). But the jarring plastic pink and incongruous name made it look more like an establishment for deviant behaviour than a fashion store.

Mr hand-on-hip certainly seemed to think so.

Sheila Rock Young Punks book

I know we can’t expect uber-luxury stores to shock us with such tactics. But in 2025, I wonder if independent fashion retailers are ready to employ some of this unnerving intimidation je ne sais quoi to bring back a sense of thrill.

Not since 2004 (with Rei Kawakubo’s first ‘guerilla store’ in East Berlin) have we seen fashion retail veer far from the minimalist-art-gallery playbook established by Armani and co. 20 years later, might we be ready for a more challenging retail experience to entice us over the threshold?

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Young Punks /Sheila Rock
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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The Toscani effect



Benetton 1984

Farewell Oliviero Toscani, a brilliant photographer and art director who changed the world through his audacious activism dressed as fashion advertising.

I became aware of him in the 1980s via his vibrant fashion shoots for Benetton using groups of racially diverse, often street cast models in simple studio settings, styled in layers upon layers by (my old boss) Caroline Baker.

Caroline Baker Benetton campaign by Oliviero Toscani

But Oliviero Toscani is possibly best known for art directing visionary Benetton ad campaigns opening up discussion around controversial subjects such as AIDS, racial discrimination and religion by featuring provocative, non-fashion images of a kissing nun and priest, three raw hearts labelled ‘white’, ‘black’, ‘yellow’, and a man dying of AIDS in the arms of his family (below).

These campaigns, along with Benetton’s equally unflinching magazine Colors were part of Toscani’s tenure as Benetton art director (from 1982-2000), but more lastingly, cement his influence as a cultural provocateur 25 years later.

Oliviero Toscani Benetton ad campaign

Benetton hearts campaign art directed by Oliviero Toscani
Benetton campaign kissing nun by Oliviero Toscani

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Benetton; Caroline Baker (Benetton); Benetton x 3
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare



Polly Mellen remembered



Polly Mellen

Thoughts and prayers to all the fashion journalists this week. I’m not sure what’s up with the planets but it’s been a whirlwind of arrivals, departures and confirmations.

The happy news is that Chanel has confirmed Matthieu Blazy as its next artistic director (following his successful three years at Bottega Veneta) and Bottega has confirmed Louise Trotter as Blazy’s replacement. Yes, I’m delighted!

The sad news is that John Galliano (AKA Johnny G – cute!) is departing Maison Margiela after ten years. Not sure where he goes next.

But very sad is the news that the incredible stylist and one of my fashion idols Polly Allen Mellen has died at the age of 100. (more…)



Quote of the day: Sophie Calle



Sophie Calle by Tim El Kaïm for W magazine

“I am both very much about oversharing but, at the same time, not at all. I am not on social media; I don’t have Instagram or Facebook. So, I am saying a lot less than anyone who is writing about what they had for dinner last night, or where, or with whom. There are a lot of people who think that they know me, but that is completely false. In fact, I choose a moment, but it is just a moment—I don’t tell what happened before or after. I have been with the same man for 20 years, and I have never written one line about him or shown one photo of him. For 20 years, no one has known how I really live my life.”
Sophie Calle, W Magazine (more…)