photography

Superfine: Tailoring Black Style by Tyler Mitchell



Superfine Tailoring Black Style by Tyler Mitchell

“From the first conversation to the final frame, it felt like floating.”

The joy in these photos, taken by Tyler Mitchell for the MET’s ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibition catalogue, is palpable. Fabulous finery, impeccable styling, chic shoes (opera pumps!), gentle gestures, it’s all there. Mitchell said he pulled inspo from “Harlem, Atlanta, Lagos, London, and beyond.” The show, a “cultural and historical examination of Black style over three hundred years through the concept of dandyism”, opens on 10th May (preceded by the MET Gala of course) and looks like one of the strongest MET Costume Institute shows in recent years. (more…)



Intimidated? You’re welcome



Sheila Rock Young Punks King's Road Jordan

An alternative thought to last Thursday’s post about the cosy conviviality of the Alaïa cafe-bookshop.

Reading Sheila Rock’s excellent 2020 photo book, Young Punks, her photo of the decidedly uninviting facade of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1976 SEX shop (above) revealed an audacious weirdness with intimidating appeal that lured people in out of sheer curiosity. (more…)



Polly Mellen remembered



Polly Mellen

Thoughts and prayers to all the fashion journalists this week. I’m not sure what’s up with the planets but it’s been a whirlwind of arrivals, departures and confirmations.

The happy news is that Chanel has confirmed Matthieu Blazy as its next artistic director (following his successful three years at Bottega Veneta) and Bottega has confirmed Louise Trotter as Blazy’s replacement. Yes, I’m delighted!

The sad news is that John Galliano (AKA Johnny G – cute!) is departing Maison Margiela after ten years. Not sure where he goes next.

But very sad is the news that the incredible stylist and one of my fashion idols Polly Allen Mellen has died at the age of 100. (more…)



Quote of the day: Sophie Calle



Sophie Calle by Tim El Kaïm for W magazine

“I am both very much about oversharing but, at the same time, not at all. I am not on social media; I don’t have Instagram or Facebook. So, I am saying a lot less than anyone who is writing about what they had for dinner last night, or where, or with whom. There are a lot of people who think that they know me, but that is completely false. In fact, I choose a moment, but it is just a moment—I don’t tell what happened before or after. I have been with the same man for 20 years, and I have never written one line about him or shown one photo of him. For 20 years, no one has known how I really live my life.”
Sophie Calle, W Magazine (more…)