culture of fashion

Quote of the day: Michael Bise on 90s Gap



Gap quote Michael Bise

“Being at Gap in 1998 and 1999 was like being Tina Turner at the 1985 Grammys. She won everything that year. She was the most celebrated. The most eyes were on her. Everyone was looking at her and following her every move. And that’s what it was like at Gap.” (more…)



The culture of fashion: The 90s is officially vintage – here’s why that’s a good thing



Jil Sander 1990s

It recently dawned on me that the 1990s, the era that defined me, is properly vintage. While it’s a discombobulating thought (I mean, I don’t feel middle-aged), there are some positives. One is that the minimalist-slash-deconstructivist designers of the time – Margiela, Lang, Demeulemeester, Sander, Prada, Klein – have become established as classics and thus there’s a new market for them. (more…)



Acid House As It Happened, a new photo book by Dave Swindells



Acid House As it Happened book by Dave Swindells
‘We sat on the stairs watching a group of football fans and erstwhile hooligans who were sat a few steps below us as they hugged and (literally) made daisy chains together. Andrew [Wetherall] gestured towards them and half-whispered: “He’s a Chelsea fan, that one’s Millwall, those two are ICF [West Ham’s Inter City firm of hardcore fans], he’s Arsenal and I’m not sure about those two wrong-‘uns behind them but you can bet that a couple of weeks ago they’d have happily been kicking chunks out of each other. This “Summer of Love” thing could be getting out of hand.”‘

This quote from Dave Swindells comes from his new photo book documenting the Acid House raves, warehouse parties and clubs of 1988, the year that dance music changed British culture and society (if you want to get really deep). (more…)



The culture of fashion: Retail-edutainment rules at Dior’s renovated Avenue Montaigne flagship



Ballgowns on display at La Galerie Dior in Paris

Retail-edutainment is the latest portmanteau on my mind.

Dior is finally ready to reopen its Avenue Montaigne flagship after a two-year reno. This latest incarnation is a ‘universe of Dior’ which includes retail, restaurants and a gallery, plus a private shopping apartment that gives its guests the keys to the store – accompanied by concierges to attend to their every whim.

The Galerie de Dior is the masterstroke. (more…)