Music

Quote of the day: Michael Bise on 90s Gap



Gap quote Michael Bise

“Being at Gap in 1998 and 1999 was like being Tina Turner at the 1985 Grammys. She won everything that year. She was the most celebrated. The most eyes were on her. Everyone was looking at her and following her every move. And that’s what it was like at Gap.” (more…)



Acid House As It Happened, a new photo book by Dave Swindells



Acid House As it Happened book by Dave Swindells
‘We sat on the stairs watching a group of football fans and erstwhile hooligans who were sat a few steps below us as they hugged and (literally) made daisy chains together. Andrew [Wetherall] gestured towards them and half-whispered: “He’s a Chelsea fan, that one’s Millwall, those two are ICF [West Ham’s Inter City firm of hardcore fans], he’s Arsenal and I’m not sure about those two wrong-‘uns behind them but you can bet that a couple of weeks ago they’d have happily been kicking chunks out of each other. This “Summer of Love” thing could be getting out of hand.”‘

This quote from Dave Swindells comes from his new photo book documenting the Acid House raves, warehouse parties and clubs of 1988, the year that dance music changed British culture and society (if you want to get really deep). (more…)



In the mood for Lemaire AW22



Suzi De Givenchy in Lemaire AW22

I’m beginning to hate my puffer jacket. I just want to wear something insulating and protective but unrestricting, something like the many wonderful examples of outerwear shown at Lemaire AW22 last month.

Described as “an urban horde of modern-day hunter-gatherers,” the collection nailed Lemaire’s versatile trademarks – trench coats, soft overcoats, deconstructed blazers – for the 24-hour city girl (or boy). Accompanying the utility-luxe silhouettes and layered styling were equally desirable accessories. Cross-body bags to create graphic demarcation, knitted balaclavas (still around for 2022) and bougie leather water bottle holders. (more…)



In praise of the cultural oral history



oral history

Never met an oral history I didn’t love.

Oral histories are the perfect format book for the time poor. You can open at any page and learn something or entertain yourself in five minutes flat. I first got hooked in the early 90s, starting with Days in the Life* (Jonathon Green’s seminal deep dive into London’s 60s counterculture), swiftly followed by his equally brilliant It: Sex Since the Sixties* (more 60s rompage) and later, Them: Voices from the Immigrant Community in Contemporary Britain*, a fascinating investigation into British immigrant life (Green mentioned recently that he’s planning an update, which is amazing news). (more…)