Burberry

The culture of fashion: kilty pleasures



Le Kilt

It’s 30 years since Marc Jacobs’ fateful Perry Ellis grunge collection, so a good time for one revival in particular. This autumn I’m excited for the return of the kilt, the old money staple that straddles childhood nostalgia and tradition (think school uniforms and the Queen off-duty) and pop culture subversion (70s punk, 90s grunge, Cher from Clueless).

This season, Burberry has cleverly revived it as a youthful house code in an effort to ramp up Daniel Lee’s modern Brit vision. For starters, there’s a barely-there silk chiffon version, alongside robust wool options in purple check*(below), yellow* (below) and crimson* ready to accompany the house check outerwear, blankets and hot water bottles that will adorn Gen-Z backs in the coming weeks.

Burberry kilt by Scott Trindle for Vogue
Burberry kilt by Scott Trindle for Vogue

You could say the wheels were set in motion two springs ago with Miu Miu’s kilt-adjacent pleated skirts of every length (below) causing a stir from the runway to the top of the Lyst charts, followed by Lucinda Chambers’ bold asymmetric kilt for her Collagerie x Jigsaw collab last autumn.

Kilts are interesting as they’re rooted in Scottish military heritage yet are open to so much stylistic interpretation. According to this Met Museum explainer, they were adopted by upper class women after WW2 as well as English and American private schools. But punks disrupted their genteel appeal in the 70s, followed by grunge in the 90s. Steven Meisel’s Vogue Italia shoot (below) nails the 90s moment, while Bruce Weber’s country romp with Stella Tennant reinforces the posh-punk incongruity (below). This Versus AW95 campaign (below) also features aristo-punk Stella (so-called for the nose ring she wore in her first UK Vogue shoot) putting her glam twist on the kilt with matching sporran-esque bag and heels.

Miu Miu pleated skirt
Vogue Perry Ellis Marc Jacobs Steven Meisel grunge
Stella Tennant Vogue Italia Bruce Weber
Versus campaign Fall Winter 1995

Most worthy of our attention right now however, is the Le Kilt reboot (top and below). A lesson in made-in-Scotland kilts, mohair wrap minis and superfine lambswool twin sets, its accompanying accessories and superb styling marry old school heritage with romantic rebellion in the best possible way.
Le Kilt
Le Kilt
Le Kilt

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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Le Kilt; Burberry AW23/ Vogue x 2; Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia; Bruce Weber for Vogue Italia; Versus AW95; Le Kilt x 3
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Margaret Howell AW23 styling masterclass



Margaret Howell AW23

Not wanting to wish August away but… it’s not feeling very ‘summer vibes’ here atm. So please indulge my early preview of Margaret Howell AW23 comfort dressing.

Margaret Howell is continuing its run of modern utility-luxe dressing, with increasingly gender-fluid styling and casting that I’m fully on board with. I love this 80s-utility vibe which feels like a cross between old money Burberry and army-surplus-thrifted-from-Laurence-Corner-circa-1985.

Naturally, my standout is the massive tweed check coat layered over the grey V-neck, tucked into a raw denim skirt. (I would swap the knee socks for ankle length.) The pleated kilt-esque skirts are going to be everywhere for autumn, while the chunky webbing belt over the gauzy is-it-a-coat-is-it-a-dress is a great example of ‘what’s the surprise’ wrongness. P.S. this may have to be the year I pop my Paraboot* cherry, inspired by these crenelated-sole shoes.

Let’s have it!

Margaret Howell AW23 styling masterclass

Margaret Howell AW23
Margaret Howell AW23




WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Margaret Howell AW23 by Mark Kean
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links* and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book, The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman
CLICK HERE to buy my beauty book, Face Values: The New Beauty Rituals and Skincare



Dior AW23: steel skirts, haute gorpcore and garconne beauty



DIOR FINALE AUTUMN-WINTER 2023 ©ADRIEN DIRAND

I’m very much enjoying all the variations on classics at the AW23 shows. Sacai, Saint Laurent, Bottega and Prada are doing it for me – and Dior, of course.

Almost entirely in black, the Dior AW23 show was a ‘reincarnation’ of 50s French Girl Style, with Édith Piaf, Juliette Gréco and Catherine Dior (Mr Dior’s sister) the season’s muses. More ‘The New Garconne’ than The New Look, if you will. My top five takeaways… (more…)



Let them wear blankets



Saint Laurent aw23

At the risk of sounding trite, the humble blanket has stepped up as a metaphor of our times and a recurring motif at the AW23 shows. A symbol of post-Covid comfort and tactility as well as warmth (the UK energy crisis continues) and survival (another day, another earthquake), we just can’t be separated from our security blankets.

Styling wise, they appeared as travel accessories in the menswear shows (more…)