This felt like an extremely polished London Fashion Week. Roksanda, JW Anderson, Victoria Beckham and particularly Mary Katrantzou showed mature, slick collections that nailed their individual DNAs. And while you expect the newbies to be a bit scrappier in their presentation, they too were impressively coherent.
I was blown away by Matty Bovan, who, assisted by Katie Grand’s crack styling team and a helping hand from Coach, delivered a super-sophisticated spectacle reminiscent of Westwood or Galliano. His USP is a very British artsy-craftsy take on knitwear that was bricolaged with crochet, ruffles and Liberty-print florals (more…)
Burberry just unveiled its first ad campaign under Riccardo Tisci. I like that it used a range of different photographers rather than just one, including the brilliant Nick Knight (below, with models standing in front of a painting by British artist, Jenny Saville) alongside two of my other faves, Colin Dodgson (above) and Letty Schmiterlow.
And in a further push for inclusivity, it’s featured Stella Tennant who is one of my favourite 90s models (more…)
First impressions of Ricccardo Tisci for Burberry SS19 aka New Burberry? I thought he was very smart to open on those super grown up, chic, gentlewomanly pieces. Gorgeous honey-coloured trench coats with silky pleat skirts and scarf-style blouses, worn with elegant leather waist bags and stilettos. So not what we expected!
I noted that the younger models struggled on those pin heels (well they have been wearing Nikes for the last five years) but the supermodels (Stella, Natalia, Mariacarla et al) walked with grace and purpose. There was a little bit of Burberry check, but executed in a nuanced, respectful way, rather than the brash check of last season. (more…)
Fashion Week for press and VIPs really does seem to be a thing of the past these days. The best shows always seem to have an element of public spectacle – whether that’s Virgil Abloh’s debut as LouisVuitton’s menswear creative director (for which he invited hundreds of fashion students to watch) or Martine Rose’s Camden street show, which was literally staged in a residential street, with all the neighbours watching.
This week’s London Fashion Week SS19 shows coincide with the London Design Festival, which means retailers have the spotlight on both fashion and interior design. (more…)