The joy revolution that started to emerge during the SS21 collections last September is fully showing up for SS22. The most prominent menswear shows have been the ones with a message of optimistic hedonism expressed through colour, music and a throwback to rave culture.
For example I loved Dries van Noten’s Primal Scream soundtrack serenading us through the streets of Antwerp, with the lyrics of Loaded encouraging us to “be free to do what we wanna do!” Van Noten expressed the mood of his design team as “clothes to go and have fun in. Just enjoy things. Go to the night club with silk shirts on.” The shirts were the big highlight; big in every sense, printed with artwork by Rubens and Breughel, as well as photomontages depicting Antwerp city scenes, teamed with loud sunglasses and washed silk outerwear (more…)
I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.
An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.
Last week saw the opening of Disobedient Bodies at the Hepworth Wakefield Gallery in West Yorkshire. It’s curated by Jonathan Anderson (of J.W.Anderson and Loewe fame) and looks at the parallels in how fashion and art treat the human figure. (more…)
Craft is trending for SS17 (or is it AW16?) and I don’t just mean complex embroideries and hand tooled leathers. Although, yes, those too. More that designers are celebrating all manner of craft and makers, in particular two of LFW’s most important designers,Christopher Bailey at Burberry and J.W.Anderson’s Jonathan Anderson. (more…)