Ralph Lauren

On my radar: opera pumps



Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley in opera pumps

This photo of Roy Halston and Andre Leon Talley (above) appeared on my Pinterest and got me thinking about opera pumps.

WTF are opera pumps? Quite simply a Regency-era formal men’s slipper previously adorned with a buckle, now with a flat grosgrain bow (below). The opera pump is traditionally worn with black tie, accompanied by black sheer silk socks (and sock suspenders!). The classic variety popularised by the Edwardians is made from black patent leather, although since the 1950s highly polished calfskin has also been an option. How is an opera pump different to a ballet pump? To me, it has a slightly slimmer profile, a more solid heel, is cut higher on the vamp and finished with a grosgrain bow. (more…)



Shop the post: double shirts in the wild



Popeye City Boy Style

Now the sweaters are off, it’s time to think about shirts. Why wear one when you can wear two (or three)? A small button-down under a bigger one worn undone. Two identical, worn unbuttoned over a tee. Two different styles, or the same style with contrasting stripes.

Take some inspo from these examples in the wild – I will… (more…)



Bode just unveiled its vison for womenswear



Bode AW23 womenswear - Ssense

There was a big post-show buzz around the Bode AW23 show during men’s Fashion Week in Paris. For the first time. Emily revealed her ambition for womenswear; not a ‘feminised’ take on her menswear as one might expect but a fully realised vision that riffed off early 20th century glamour, incorporating familial storytelling (of course) and handcrafted embellishment.

It got rave reviews, although I felt the styling of the menswear was more eclectic. My highlights: an equestrian-themed applique jacket, hand-knit embroidered sweaters and gloves, a perfect shawl-collared tuxedo and the men’s T-bars and Mary Janes. (more…)



It’s here: The new J.Crew



J.Crew Menswear Aw22 look book

The J.Crew menswear 3.0 look book is in. Is it any cop? You decide.

First impressions from Brendon Babenzien’s J.Crew vision are… it looks promising. Not ground breaking but it aligns with the Drake’s, Aimé Leon Dore, Ralph-lite customer and will likely filter to the Uniqlo tribe looking to spend a little more. Price points look OK and there’s a welcome focus on quality and provenance. (more…)