13 March, 2026

Trend report: What to wear for SS26

The Row SS26

SS26 was the now infamous ‘reset’ season of mega designers taking up residence at new houses. The result is a broom-sweep of schloopy silhouettes in lieu of sharper cuts, bold injections of colour and a menu of fashion archetypes to choose from, rather than one or two overarching directions.

1/ PALETTE CLEANSER. One thing designers did agree on: this is a season for pure primaries in abundance. It’s a look that works really well on simple, architectural silhouettes which was especially clear at Jil Sander (below), Loewe and Celine as well as The Row (top). Just one piece can energise your everyday since primaries play so well against grey, beige and denim. The Loewe ‘Sports Walkman’ yellows (below) are pure summer holiday vibes and I love a red cardigan to offset khaki, white or grey. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Ad campaigns, Art, Beauty, Books, Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Photography, Trends Acne Studios, ad campaigns, Alekos Fassianos, Andrew Durbin, art, Arthur Tress, books, Celine, Dario Vitale, Jil Sander, Jonathan Anderson, Loewe, Marta Oldrini, Paul Thek, Peter Hujar, photography, Ralph Lauren, Saint Laurent, shopping, SS26, Steven Meisel, The Row, trends

25 September, 2025

NYFW SS26 notes

Coach ss26 neck purses backstage

New York Fashion Week: Not a huge amount to write home about, but a few details captured my attention…

Coach has hit its stride in recent seasons and I’m pleased for Stuart Vevers. He’s a nice guy and I think people conveniently forget that he elevated Loewe in the fashion space before Jonathan Anderson arrived. Anyway, at Coach SS26 (above and below) I liked the neck doodads – cute little pouches and pendants meant to symbolise sentimentality and New York mementos. Styled in combination with dishevelled, oversized silhouettes by appropriately youth-obsessed Olivier Rizzo, they should help attract the next generation of Coach handbag-toting customers. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends Biz Sherbert, Brandy Melville, Celine, Dior, Gap, J Crew, J Press, Jonathan Anderson, Michael Rider, NYFW, preppy, Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch, trends

8 July, 2025

Michael Rider’s Celine Spring 26: first impressions are in

Celine Spring 26 by Michael Rider

Sunday saw quite the buzz around the New New Celine show – the debut by Michael Rider, a well-liked alumnus of Phoebe Philo’s Celine, Nicholas Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga and Polo Ralph Lauren.

The result was – quelle surprise! – an amalgam of Ralph, Phoebe’s Celine and Hedi’s Celine. What does that look like? Classic Ralph-like preppy-isms (camel coats, primary colours, blazers and rugby shirts), Phoebe-era scarves and bags, and Hedi’s cool factor in the skinny pants (hated those!) and indie-Oxbridge haircuts. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News Celine, designers, fashion shows, Hedi Slimane, luxury, Michael Rider, Phoebe Philo, Ralph Lauren, SS26

4 July, 2025

On Willy Chavarria SS26, refined subversion and a menswear succession moment

Willy Chavarria SS26

“I’m not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I’m interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one’s own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one’s personal intent — that’s power. That’s fashion.” Willy Chavarria, SS26

Boy, was I fortunate to see this quote in action last Friday, from my Paris menswear front row seat at Salle Pleyel. From the sober-but-powerful opening scene (to José Feliciano’s California Dreamin’) of 35 men in long white tees, shorts and socks, referencing the recent dehumanisation of U.S immigrants in Salvadoran prisons, the collection then went on to exuberantly reflect Chavarria’s personal exploration of identity, resistance and “refined subversion”. (more…)