16 December, 2025

On the gentle patina of archive Armani in Arena Homme Plus

Arena Homme Plus Armani by Alasdair McLellan

Max Pearmain and Alasdair McLellan’s Armani tribute portfolio in Arena Homme Plus is a fab reminder of the casual greatness of Emporio Armani and Armani Jeans (aside from Giorgio’s soft tailoring legacy).

Pearmain’s mix and mismatch layered styling is complemented by McLellan’s contemporary lens and Piotr Chamier’s casting and all are underscored by Ashley Heath’s editor’s letter (below) celebrating the decades-spanning appeal of the recently departed sprezzatura master. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, Magazines, Photography 1990s, Alasdair McLellan, Arena Homme Plus, Dossier, Giorgio Armani, magazines, Max Pearmain, photography, vintage

4 July, 2025

On Willy Chavarria SS26, refined subversion and a menswear succession moment

Willy Chavarria SS26

“I’m not interested in luxury as a symbol of privilege. I’m interested in luxury as a symbol of truth in one’s own character. Exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship worn to elevate one’s personal intent — that’s power. That’s fashion.” Willy Chavarria, SS26

Boy, was I fortunate to see this quote in action last Friday, from my Paris menswear front row seat at Salle Pleyel. From the sober-but-powerful opening scene (to José Feliciano’s California Dreamin’) of 35 men in long white tees, shorts and socks, referencing the recent dehumanisation of U.S immigrants in Salvadoran prisons, the collection then went on to exuberantly reflect Chavarria’s personal exploration of identity, resistance and “refined subversion”. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 6 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Magazines, Menswear, Music, News, Trends fashion shows, Giorgio Armani, long read, menswear, models, Omahyra Mota, Ralph Lauren, SS26, trends, Willy Chavarria

21 January, 2022

Nino Cerruti style

Nino Cerruti

It’s not even the end of January and already fashion’s legends are crossing the great divide.

While the death of Andre Leon Talley has rightfully dominated the news (everyone it seems has a heartfelt story of his larger-than-life persona), another – more understated – style elder quietly passed away at the age of 91 last weekend. Nino Cerruti (affectionately known as Il Signor Nino) was the grandson of a textile entrepreneur, whose Cerruti 1881 brand was a mainstay of 80s menswear, pegged alongside Armani as the epitome of relaxed masculine elegance. In fact, Giorgio Armani cut his teeth at Cerruti in the 1960s before going on to start his own label. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, News Andre Leon Talley, Cerruti, collabs, CristaSeya, design, gentlewoman style, Giorgio Armani, Nino Cerruti

25 August, 2020

Trend report: what to wear for AW20

Hermes AW20 trend report - photo by Jamie Stoker

What a weird year! It feels odd talking about new-season trends, all things considered, but there is going to be a new season and even if you’re not buying, there are other ways to be inspired by newness. Let’s say it’s also a way of looking forward, so a sort of exercise in cautious optimism. Here’s what’s in the air for AW20… (more…)