16 December, 2025

On the gentle patina of archive Armani in Arena Homme Plus

Arena Homme Plus Armani by Alasdair McLellan

Max Pearmain and Alasdair McLellan’s Armani tribute portfolio in Arena Homme Plus is a fab reminder of the casual greatness of Emporio Armani and Armani Jeans (aside from Giorgio’s soft tailoring legacy).

Pearmain’s mix and mismatch layered styling is complemented by McLellan’s contemporary lens and Piotr Chamier’s casting and all are underscored by Ashley Heath’s editor’s letter (below) celebrating the decades-spanning appeal of the recently departed sprezzatura master. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, Magazines, Photography 1990s, Alasdair McLellan, Arena Homme Plus, Dossier, Giorgio Armani, magazines, Max Pearmain, photography, vintage

11 May, 2023

Helmut Lang just hired Peter Do as its new creative director

Helmut Lang hires Peter Do

News just in: Peter Do is the new creative director at Helmut Lang.

I can’t say I’ve paid a ton of attention to Helmut Lang recently. Apart from that time they reissued a load of classics it’s not particularly on my radar.

But this feels like a good move for both parties. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, News, Trends 1990s, designers, Helmut Lang, Peter Do, SS23, stealth luxury, trends, wwd

7 August, 2022

The culture of fashion: the 90s heritage obsession continues

Raf Simons Fantastic Man cover

More on the 90s vintage story I wrote about in June.

Friday saw 26 pieces of vintage collectables land at Dover Street Market New York from the archive of stylist David Casavant. Curating pieces from the last 20 years by designers including Prada, Helmut Lang, and Raf Simons, highlights include a Raf Simons AW00 bomber jacket (example below) loaned to Rihanna for an event, a piece that Casavant acquired after seeing it on the cover of Fantastic Man (above). (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Designers, News, Retail concepts, Trends 1990s, David Casavant, Dover Street Market, Fantastic Man, Helmut Lang, Prada, Raf Simons, retail concepts, vintage

14 June, 2022

The culture of fashion: The 90s is officially vintage – here’s why that’s a good thing

Jil Sander 1990s

It recently dawned on me that the 1990s, the era that defined me, is properly vintage. While it’s a discombobulating thought (I mean, I don’t feel middle-aged), there are some positives. One is that the minimalist-slash-deconstructivist designers of the time – Margiela, Lang, Demeulemeester, Sander, Prada, Klein – have become established as classics and thus there’s a new market for them. (more…)