1990s

The culture of fashion: the 90s heritage obsession continues



Raf Simons Fantastic Man cover

More on the 90s vintage story I wrote about in June.

Friday saw 26 pieces of vintage collectables land at Dover Street Market New York from the archive of stylist David Casavant. Curating pieces from the last 20 years by designers including Prada, Helmut Lang, and Raf Simons, highlights include a Raf Simons AW00 bomber jacket (example below) loaned to Rihanna for an event, a piece that Casavant acquired after seeing it on the cover of Fantastic Man (above). (more…)



The culture of fashion: The 90s is officially vintage – here’s why that’s a good thing



Jil Sander 1990s

It recently dawned on me that the 1990s, the era that defined me, is properly vintage. While it’s a discombobulating thought (I mean, I don’t feel middle-aged), there are some positives. One is that the minimalist-slash-deconstructivist designers of the time – Margiela, Lang, Demeulemeester, Sander, Prada, Klein – have become established as classics and thus there’s a new market for them. (more…)



Bridging the 90s gap at Khaite AW22



Khaite AW22

“I aspire to look like a ‘90s-era Gap model,” Khaite’s Catherine Holstein told Business of Fashion at her AW22 New York Fashion Week show. It’s a handy descriptor, because 90s Gap was pretty special and there’s definitely a big 90s normcore mood pervading the air at the mo.

The AW22 Khaite show had a bit of that classic Gap energy mixed with 1990s Self Service magazine – all big leather jackets, small skirts, dark tights and light shoes. (more…)



YSL Nu is the latest in the line of anti-flawless make-up ranges for Gen Z (but Gen X might enjoy it too)



YSL Nu make-up line for Gen Z

YSL Nu*, the new make-up-meets-skincare hybrid from YSL Beauty is one of the best (dare I say ‘authentic’) iterations of the current ‘real skin’ beauty ranges I’ve seen yet. While the photography adheres to the ‘Glossier’ playbook (think extreme close-ups, racially diverse casting, un-perfect skin) it’s also clearly unretouched and the lighting is fairly unforgiving. Yet the images are striking and the cast cool enough to make this a compelling sell.

According to Hypebae, these five items were created with Gen Z for Gen Z. (more…)