Dover Street Market

The culture of fashion: the 90s heritage obsession continues



Raf Simons Fantastic Man cover

More on the 90s vintage story I wrote about in June.

Friday saw 26 pieces of vintage collectables land at Dover Street Market New York from the archive of stylist David Casavant. Curating pieces from the last 20 years by designers including Prada, Helmut Lang, and Raf Simons, highlights include a Raf Simons AW00 bomber jacket (example below) loaned to Rihanna for an event, a piece that Casavant acquired after seeing it on the cover of Fantastic Man (above).
Raf Simons patched Jacket AW00 David Casavant

Why should we care?

As I wrote a few weeks ago, the 90s and early 00s are officially vintage and that era of minimalist and conceptual designers has become lionised overtime. The appeal of Casavant’s curation-collection is a combination of fashion history for culture nerds meets celebrity memorabilia. As such, the storytelling aspect of buying and selling vintage becomes increasingly relevant.

It means you can charge more for a piece that has some sort of cultural history associated with it, even if it’s a seller saying they wore it to a particular club, or bought it from a once-iconic store and then relaying the memories attached to it.

Reinforcing this idea, David Casavant was adamant he wanted to sell the pieces in a store. “I wanted to begin small and I wanted to start where you buy them physically in store and not online,” he told WWD. “Having to buy the pieces physically in the store adds a more democratic as well as a more exclusive aspect because you have to actually go there in order to see and buy them. Dover Street Market is the perfect fit for me as they really understood and were excited about the vision. Resale is going to be a staple to stay in fashion and I wanted to be able to provide them with the highest form of…what resale could be like in their store.”

For a customer to buy one of these already special pieces in this way adds to the heritage story and cultural relevance of the piece. And so the chain of value continues.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Fantastic Man; Grailed
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Streetwear retail grows up



Aime Leon Dore London cafe

Something interesting is happening in the world of streetwear. It’s fixing up, shedding its scrappy roots and going all out for growth. Latest development? In the space of a few weeks, two of its most culty brands have opened retail stores that cement their influence and ambition for mass expansion.

On June 17th, Hypebeast unveiled an impressive new seven-storey HQ-slash-store-slash-event-space in NYC’s Chinatown. Two weeks earlier, Aimé Leon Dore (above and below) opened its London store in the heart of Soho, a two-storey retail destination incorporating a marble-floored café and a VIP private lounge. A sneaker’s throw from Supreme and Stussy, Aimé Leon Dore is a far more refined proposition than these rough and ready rivals. Its branding is more preppie-adjacent than skater kid, yet it speaks to the same youthful demographic. (more…)



Can Dover Street Parfums Market reinvent beauty retail?



Dover Street Parfums Market 11 Bis Rue Elzevir 75003 Paris

I was in Paris for a couple of days this week but I just missed the new opening from the Dover Street Market clan. I’m back again on Friday though so I’m planning to pop in to Dover Street Parfums Market, the new outpost that focuses solely on beauty. I feel it’s a good time for an entirely new beauty concept store and who better to orchestrate it than Rei and Adrian, with the help of Sarah Andelman (of Colette fame)?

“I want to find the equivalents of Simone Rocha and Craig Green in the beauty business,” says Dover Street Market CEO Adrian Joffe (more…)



Coming soon: Honey F***ing Dijon X Dover Street Market



Honey Dijon by Benjamin Huseby

Is Adrian Joffe a secret clubber? I love the idea of him letting off steam at Berghain, perhaps togged out in a combo of Rick, Raf and Comme. And now he can wear the merch of one of his (and my) favourite DJs, Honey Dijon. (more…)