Menswear

The culture of fashion: Dior SS21 menswear ‘portrait of an artist’



Dior SS21 men Amoako Boafo

Some more menswear SS21 highlights. On the maximalist craft tip, Dior hit the top notes again with a fab collab with Ghanaian artist Amoako Boafo. (See the collection video here.)

Dior’s creative director Kim Jones first met him last year during Art Basel Miami. Boafo was the artist in residence of the new Rubell Museum, opposite Dior’s fall show venue. As Jones’ artist collaborations are now a mainstay of his collections (tying in nicely with Mr Dior’s gallerist past), it made perfect sense for the two to collaborate. Jones already has a connection to Africa having grown up in the continent, while Boafo has a connection to fashion, with his fantastically wardrobed portrait sitters always dressed in attention-grabbing prints and colour combinations. (more…)



On digital fashion weeks, craft and context



Loewe SS21 menswear

I’m catching up on the ss21 menswear collections that designers have been producing during lockdown.

An early trend is for three-dimensional or heavily crafted pieces and those with intricate surface decoration. Collaborations with artisans are another ‘thread’ to a brand story that designers can weave, showing support for their craft, or putting the spotlight on their own pattern makers.

Two standout videos I’ve enjoyed – Berluti and Loewe. (more…)



Quote of the day: Zoe Bedeaux on Judy Blame



Judy Blame by Paul Hartnett

“Judy used to play around with all of those luxury brands, cutting up their logos and rebranding them – brands like Moët, Chanel and Vuitton. i-D used to print letters that were sent in and Moët sent one in saying that they were looking for Judy – they wanted to prosecute ‘her’! (more…)



The culture of fashion: Grace Wales Bonner grows up



Wales Bonner AW20 by Fashion Network

Wow, when did Wales Bonner get so slick, polished and commercial? I love it! The Wales Bonner AW20 mixed-gender show for London Fashion Week Mens was inspired by London’s 70s Lovers’ Rock scene. Specifically, the photos by John Goto of teenagers at Lewisham Youth Club, personally resonant for Grace Wales Bonner as her dad worked in the area back in the day.

I love the styling – sharp boxy blazers over shin-sweeping stripy tunics, shirts layered over polonecks and all the head gear and jewellery. (more…)