26 January, 2023

Bode just unveiled its vison for womenswear

Bode AW23 womenswear - Ssense

There was a big post-show buzz around the Bode AW23 show during men’s Fashion Week in Paris. For the first time. Emily revealed her ambition for womenswear; not a ‘feminised’ take on her menswear as one might expect but a fully realised vision that riffed off early 20th century glamour, incorporating familial storytelling (of course) and handcrafted embellishment.

It got rave reviews, although I felt the styling of the menswear was more eclectic. My highlights: an equestrian-themed applique jacket, hand-knit embroidered sweaters and gloves, a perfect shawl-collared tuxedo and the men’s T-bars and Mary Janes.

This vision of Bode brings a charming new flavour to the tradition of American narrative fashion – a more personal and artisanal alternative to Ralph Lauren, perhaps? See more here and here and details here.

Bode AW23

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Bode AW23 via SSense, Vogue Runway
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Disneyrollergirl 2 Comments Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends AW23, Bode, menswear, Ralph Lauren, trends

19 January, 2023

Ideas to steal from Prada menswear AW23

Prada menswear fw23

The AW23 menswear collections are in full swing, and Prada got my attention with mod-sharp tailoring, kooky collars and my favourite narrow-trouser-big-shoe silhouette.

SB SUITS. Thank God for the return of the single-breasted jacket. I’m still on the hunt for one in the ocean of DB’s, so the two-or-three-button, slightly boxy fit is up my alley, especially teamed with ankle bone-grazing trousers.

SHARP AND SOFT. The cardigans with integrated – or detachable? – super pointy collars were an interesting styling touch. Who came up with this extremely lengthy collar first? Was it Lemaire? The Row? Perhaps it was Prada (or Raf) several seasons ago? No idea, but I like this mismatched styling device, as well as the combination of fuzzy cardigan with serious tailoring.

POWER TOTES. Structured, slightly asymmetrical totes are the new briefcase, complete with water bottle. I also love the high-shine leather neck bags (there must be a better name for these)…

BOY BAND HAIR. I can’t not mention the hair. Not in the show actually, but on the audience members. Specifically, K-pop boy band Enhypen’s Beatles-esque mop tops – and most notably, Jake’s wavy fringe.

SLIM PICKINGS. The high-waisted, slim trouser cut was impeccable and particularly noticeable in the graphic emerald and red colourways (good luck tucking in your jacket quite so immaculately). If you’re not feeling the Y2K bumster revival, think about a classic flat-front slim pant with a heavy-tread Derby shoe; I certainly will.

Prada menswear long collars AW23
Prada menswear AW23

Prada AW23 menswear bags

Jake Enhypen Prada aw23

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Prada menswear AW23
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

Disneyrollergirl 0 Comments Brands, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends AW23, celebrities, Enhypen, menswear, Miuccia prada, Prada, Raf Simons, trends

16 December, 2022

Hedi Slimane’s ‘age of indieness’ returns for Celine AW23

Celine AW23

“You can only be lucky enough to have one style, a style of your own that becomes a caricature of you, your own ‘sound. I’m probably synonymous [with] punk rock and indieness in fashion, beside being known for my androgynous models. I have been precisely this in fashion for more than 20 years. This is the caricature I gladly own.”
Hedi Slimane

Proof that if you just stand still and do your thing, fashion eventually catches up with you, Hedi Slimane is once again haute stuff. With revenue doubled since his arrival, Slimane’s recent LA Celine AW23 show (part fashion show, part ‘indie sleaze’ rock concert) unapologetically brought his own greatest hits front and centre. (more…)

Disneyrollergirl 1 Comment Brands, Business of fashion, Design, Designers, Fashion shows, Menswear, News, Trends Alessandro Michele, AW23, Business of Fashion, Celine, design, designers, Gucci, Hedi Slimane, LVMH, trends

12 October, 2022

Put a jumper on

& Daughter AW22

“Put a jumper on” is a phrase I’ve already got used to hearing and it’s only early autumn. In truth, I’m a jumper queen. I even wear them in summer. While fashion people love to rave about cashmere (which I do love too), it’s not the be all and end all and it’s certainly not the warmest.

My go-to for warm knitwear is Shetland and mohair. Thanks to Michael Williams (of A Continuous Lean fame), I’ve just learnt about ‘Shaggy Dog’ sweaters. These fuzzy Shetland wool sweaters seem to be everywhere on the menswear circuit; Mr DRG likes the Drake’s version (below), while Williams recommends the endless colourways from J Press (below). (more…)