Amazing really. There’s nothing fundamentally new about Aimé Leon Dore (chinos and varsity jackets – groundbreaking!), but the branding execution, styling, casting, collabs and community-building are masterful. It’s just had investment from LVMH and it seems to be the new preppy-revivalist playbook that everyone (read: Brooks Brothers, J Crew) is following closely.
“I don’t come from where I’m supposed to come from. So I have to prove that this is design, that this is art, that this is valid.” Virgil Abloh
Sad times in fashion. The news of Virgil Abloh’s untimely passing (from a private 2-year rare cancer illness) rocked the fashion world this week. But also created shock waves beyond. A pop culture icon whose influence stretched way past the boundaries of the catwalk, Virgil epitomised the modern-day Renaissance man who created product, music, happenings, communities and perhaps most importantly, the myth of the man himself.
Despite all the post-mortem plaudits, as a designer, he was polarising. (more…)
New York Times picture editor Brent Murray worked with photographer Melodie Jeng on this Bill Cunningham-style photo study to ascertain the current corporate dress code of the city’s New Normal.
So where are we?
Post-pandemic we’re seeing bankers and lawyers loosening up in slim chinos, tieless shirts and ballet flats, with additional sightings of trainers, Telfar totes and something called a Lululemon ABC pant* (aka a 5-pocket jean designed for all-day comfort). With fewer in-person meetings, it’s more acceptable to swap out stiff suits for a smart chino and knitted polo. (more…)
The highlight of couture week has been Balenciaga couture Fall 21. A tribute to the absolute essence of Balenciaga, it was both austere and grandiose, and I think it’s fair to say, surpassed everyone’s expectations.
Having kind of tuned out recent Balenciaga ready-to-wear collections (too hype-y, too meme-y!), I was enthralled by this first Balenciaga couture collection in 53 years. The minimalist silhouettes, (what a fab trench!), the space-age headgear, the jeans and tee treatment and the baublicious jewels. What looked like a crocodile skin skirt and trousers were in fact made from tiny pieced-together squares of leather. There were shades of Margiela (one of Demna Gvasalia’s most respected designers), McQueen and – to my eye – Raf’s Dior. (more…)