Menswear

Everybody wants to be Aimé Leon Dore



Aimé Leon Dore

Amazing really. There’s nothing fundamentally new about Aimé Leon Dore (chinos and varsity jackets – groundbreaking!), but the branding execution, styling, casting, collabs and community-building are masterful. It’s just had investment from LVMH and it seems to be the new preppy-revivalist playbook that everyone (read: Brooks Brothers, J Crew) is following closely.

The latest collection drops online at 11am EST tomorrow. (more…)



R.I.P Virgil, passer of the flame



Virgil Abloh Louis Vuitton

“I don’t come from where I’m supposed to come from. So I have to prove that this is design, that this is art, that this is valid.”
Virgil Abloh

Sad times in fashion. The news of Virgil Abloh’s untimely passing (from a private 2-year rare cancer illness) rocked the fashion world this week. But also created shock waves beyond. A pop culture icon whose influence stretched way past the boundaries of the catwalk, Virgil epitomised the modern-day Renaissance man who created product, music, happenings, communities and perhaps most importantly, the myth of the man himself.

Despite all the post-mortem plaudits, as a designer, he was polarising. (more…)



Street style, but make it corporate



Wall Street style

Love this New York Times photo-feature on what Wall Street is wearing now.

New York Times picture editor Brent Murray worked with photographer Melodie Jeng on this Bill Cunningham-style photo study to ascertain the current corporate dress code of the city’s New Normal.

So where are we?

Post-pandemic we’re seeing bankers and lawyers loosening up in slim chinos, tieless shirts and ballet flats, with additional sightings of trainers, Telfar totes and something called a Lululemon ABC pant* (aka a 5-pocket jean designed for all-day comfort). With fewer in-person meetings, it’s more acceptable to swap out stiff suits for a smart chino and knitted polo. (more…)



Everyone’s talking about Balenciaga couture



Balenciaga Couture Fall 21

The highlight of couture week has been Balenciaga couture Fall 21. A tribute to the absolute essence of Balenciaga, it was both austere and grandiose, and I think it’s fair to say, surpassed everyone’s expectations.

Having kind of tuned out recent Balenciaga ready-to-wear collections (too hype-y, too meme-y!), I was enthralled by this first Balenciaga couture collection in 53 years. The minimalist silhouettes, (what a fab trench!), the space-age headgear, the jeans and tee treatment and the baublicious jewels. What looked like a crocodile skin skirt and trousers were in fact made from tiny pieced-together squares of leather. There were shades of Margiela (one of Demna Gvasalia’s most respected designers), McQueen and – to my eye – Raf’s Dior. (more…)