Art

Trend report: What to steal from Dior men fall 2020



Dior Shawn Stussy men's fall 2020 by BRETT LLOYD

“I’m a commercial artist. I think things are going so well because I’m not afraid to do things that are commercial.”  And therein lies the success of Kim Jones. His Dior men’s fall collection shown last Tuesday was highly anticipated by me and my fashion cohorts as soon as the collab with Shawn Stussy was announced.

I’ve always liked Kim Jones’s cultural references, most likely because we’re from the same micro-generation. At Louis Vuitton and Dior, his most resonant collections for me were the ones that referenced Christopher Nemeth, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Raymond Pettibon. And as a fellow house and disco head (again, a generational influence), his choice of musical collaborators is another draw. A true creative director, his knack of threading together the sensorial and storytelling elements with creative savoir-faire has put him at the forefront of today’s luxury-meets-street convergence.

Dior Shawn Stussy fall 2020 Vogue Runway

The Dior men’s fall collection was a much-needed burst of escapist joie de vivre in the week before the UK elections. It took place during Art Basel Miami, opposite Miami Beach’s brand new Rubell Museum. These seamless juxtapositions are no accident. They’re meticulously thought out, designed to reinforce the art aspect of the collab and mesh nicely with Dior lore – Monsieur Dior was, after all, a gallerist before he was a fashionisto. Positioning Shawn Stussy as an artist and not just a streetwear entrepreneur was key.

Dior Shawn Stussy pre fall 2020 Vogue Runway

On which note, who exactly is Shawn Stussy? Ah, well here we have the masterstroke of KJ genius. If you want relevance and authenticity, it’s right here. Long story short, Shawn Stussy founded Stussy back in the early 80s. By the mid-80s it was everywhere in skate-streetwear circles, although the ‘street wear’ term and movement had yet to be defined as such. For my micro-generation, it was quietly iconic. Scrappy, attitude-y, sexy and under-the-radar. In the UK it was distributed by Gimme 5, the equally scrappy company that springboarded many young skate-street brands, bringing the likes of Supreme and A Bathing Ape to mass popularity.

Jones was part of that scene in the 90s and was an early Stussy advocate, hence the Shawn Stussy connection. Shawn sold the brand in 1996 and that’s the genius part. Rather than collaborate with Stussy as it is now (why bother when he had already done something similar with competitor Supreme at Louis Vuitton?), he chose to work with Shawn, not as a ‘brand’ but as an artist. He could still tap into the heritage of old Stussy but in a much cooler, artistic way.

Kim Jones with Shawn Stussy at Dior pre-fall 2020

Shawn was enlisted to doodle the Dior logo in his playful Sharpie style, which was recreated by Dior using stencils and rare artisanal techniques. What are these techniques? Well, no one seems to be able to describe them, but here’s a fab demo, narrated by UK designer Edward Crutchley. And I love this video of Shawn and Kim together…)

Dior Shawn Stussy Japanese artisan marbling printing technique

To accompany Shawn Stussy’s ‘psychedelic surf’ scrawl, the venue walls were covered in Miami-bright graffiti and the soundtrack was suitably hi octane house. And to round everything out (maybe a tad unnecessarily), a special couture-ified ‘AirDior’ Air Jordan sneaker was unveiled, sending the hypebeasts into raptures.

It was all very accessible, summery and rather delightful. And as is now standard at Kim Jones’s menswear shows, there’s no gender discrimination – girls can play too. So here are my picks of what to steal from Dior fall 2020…


CAMP SHIRTS
These heavily beaded camp shirts will be a major hit for guys of all ages but can also look great on women. One took 2,600 hours to embroider and the added benefit of weighty beading and embroidery is that it gives extra drape to the finished article. I also like the styling tip of layering two shirts together for contrast.

Dior Shawn Stussy pre fall 2020 hand beaded camp shirt Vogue Runway
Dior Shawn Stussy fall 2020 camp shirt by Hypebeast


OUTERWEAR
To temper the Miami colour palette, we witnessed some great caramel-coloured outerwear combined with skater-length shorts and hi-tops. The logo-lined trench is on my radar and the oversized bomber and menswear topcoat are good examples of Jones’s high-low prowess.

Dior men's pre-fall 2020 Vogue Runway
Dior Shawn Stussy pre fall 2020 Vogue Runway


BERETS AND BUCKETS
There was an abundance of headgear, designed of course, by Dior regular Stephen Jones. While I love a bucket hat (and there were plenty of trippy-dippy swirl-print ones), I actually preferred the classic dark berets, with their hand rendered Dior logo and subtle beadwork, teamed with minimalist summer-weight suiting and long shorts.

Dior Shawn Stussy pre fall 2020 Vogue Runway


KNITS AND TOTES
Expect to see these flamboyant hand knits all over the Fashion Week ‘It Girl’ contingent come spring. The logo totes continue the mania for the many iterations of Dior tote that have been seeded across the influencer-sphere of late. Much more practical than a handbag, they represent the everyday appeal of luxury to new-gen RTW consumers.

Dior Shawn Stussy pre fall 2020 Vogue Runway


PYTHON PRINT
Jones reimagined the women’s Dior saddlebag for men a while ago, and for fall 2020 offers a new python skin version. Watch them fly! If skins aren’t your thing (tsk, pesky vegans), then python print silk separates will be the next best alternative. Coming to a Zara rail near you soon, no doubt…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Dior; Vogue Runway; Hypebeast
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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The DRG Style Index: Ralph Lauren, Prada X Adidas, Keith Haring



Here’s the latest DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…


RALPH LAUREN IS NICE

Ralph Lauren HBO documentary
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Press trip: 40 years of the Agnes b snap cardigan



 Agnes b snap cardigan exhibition

“Upstairs in a vintage boutique in Tokyo, where most of the clothes were from Comme des Garcons, Margiela, Sacai, Yamamoto, the proprietor had an entire rail of your cardigans. He said they went with everything and that when stocks ran low, people would start to get anxious!”

This is writer Sophie Fontanel penning a sort of love letter to Agnès b in the Assouline book, The Snap Cardigan. (more…)