The one show that dominated my NYFW social feeds? The Row AW20. One wag described it as “the same collection I’ve been seeing for the last six seasons.” No matter; its predictable self-assured minimalism and quiet tailoring offer something of a sartorial salve in troubled times. And after all, anti-fashion is the new Fashion. (Or something.) Highlights were the floor-nuzzling trench coats, collarless boxy jackets and full-legged pants. Plus more rollnecks layered under unadulterated shirting (also trending this season, fyi).
Also noteworthy at NYFW: Gabriela Hearst, aka ‘The American Hermes’; Debbie Harry singing ‘Dreaming’ at Coach (possibly even more exciting than the Jean-Michel Basquiat collab and the downtown eighties styling); and Marc Jacobs’ New York nostalgia dressed up in a contemporary dance-off…
IMAGES: The Row AW20
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I have tons of Georgia O’Keeeffe pictures on my Pinterest board as research for a project. Her personal style was just fantastic – those shirts! The hats! The kimonos! The hair!
Sotheby’s has a sale of a number of her personal artefacts coming up, including dresses, jewellery, coats and a fabulous velvet hood. What’s remarkable to me is that apparently some of these pieces were hand-sewn by Georgia O’Keeffe herself. (more…)
There’s been a lot of talk about gender identity and masculinity in the last year and it’s going to continue through 2020. This exhibition looks promising. Masculinities: Liberation Through Photography opens at The Barbican next month, featuring work from over 50 artists, photographers and filmmakers, including Sunil Gupta (above), Richard Avedon, Jeremy Deller, Karlheinz Weinberger and Collier Schorr.
A name to look out for in the 2020s: Amoako Boafo. This Vienna-based Ghanian painter came to my attention during Art Basel Miami, when his work kept pinging up on Instagram.
His portraits have a really magnetic, visceral power, using fingers to paint directly onto the canvas. While the effect is in your face and graphic, I like the attention to fashion detail, it’s got a bit of Alex Katz and Elizabeth Peyton flavour in that respect. In 2020, Boafo will have a solo show at Mariane Ibrahim in Chicago and I’m sure his influence will be far reaching. (more…)