Art

The culture of fashion: the creative legacy of Willi Smith



WilliWear designer Willi Smith courtesy Bonnie Brownfield

I finally managed to get stuck into the Willi Smith community archive – part of the recent Cooper Hewitt Willi Smith: Street Couture exhibition – with its immersive oral history from friends and customers. It’s so brilliantly done, giving you a real sense of the designer, the man and his influence on his creative community. (more…)



Shop the post: A new Raf-ccia uniform at Prada SS21



Prada ss21

“A uniform is something that makes you feel able to think. You have to feel well, so that you are able to think.” Miuccia Prada

I wrote my fashion college dissertation on uniforms so the ‘New Prada’ SS21 collection from Miuccia and Raf was right up my strada. Specifically it took its cue from Miuccia Prada’s own uniform of skirt-sweater-kitten-heels, spliced with Raf Simons’ street sensibility. So, circle skirts with slouchy sweaters, hoodies and hole-gouged tops, 90s two-pieces of shell tops and long-legged pants, and couture coats fashioned from Re-nylon (aka fabric du jour, upcycled nylon). (more…)



Culture of fashion: Helmut Lang x Saint Laurent collab



Helmut Lang X Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Rive Droite

“I always had the utmost respect for the work of Yves, and Anthony has created an unparalleled vision for YSL, furthering the house’s legacy in a truly contemporary way…Anthony was the first person in fashion to engage in a collaboration focusing on my artwork. As I collaborated with artists in different ways throughout my time in fashion, it was intriguing to be in the reversed position.”

An interesting turn of events at Saint Laurent. When I saw the headline saying Anthony Vaccarello has collaborated with Helmut Lang (pay wall), I assumed a fashion line. (more…)



The September issues have come to save us



Vogue Italia September issue 2020 featuring Bethann Hardison

September is going to be a memorable month. Furlough schemes ending, kids (and teachers) going back to school in the New Normal, and some businesses tentatively reopening their offices.

It will be challenging but one must remain optimistic. Stepping into the role of chief optimism officer for the month: print magazines. More specifically, the September issues. (more…)