L’Etiquette

Merch watch: are you consuming culture as a performative act?



The Gentlewoman x Arket tee

Rachel Cusk and Zadie Smith have become, in effect, literary brands — once their names are removed from the context of a book’s cover and placed on a hat or a tote bag.” Terry Nguyen, New York Times.

The merch machine refuses to die. In fact, I would argue it’s only just getting started. The New York Times recently published this article on literary merch, explaining the relatively new popularity of #litcore caps (and totes and tees) that show allegiance to revered writers while telegraphing the wearer’s (perceived) intellectual superiority. The Guardian calls this “consuming culture as a performative act”, while comedian Dan Rosen simply calls it “liberal cringe” (ouch #guilty).

It’s also rampant in media, with mainstream and niche publications going all out on taste signallers. (more…)



Trend report: what to wear for AW23



Johnny Dufort for T Magazine

AW23 is emphatically female-focussed, kicking off with supermodel mania – that Vogue cover, the Apple series and a Linda Evangelista book – and continuing with a slew of women-championing exhibitions. We’ve also got the big Phoebe Philo reveal to come, as well as a focus on revivalist classic fashion (aka gentlewoman style). For this you can easily shop your closet, or consider buying pre-loved – the quality may be better and so may the price. “The connection between instability in the economy and consumers’ desire for classic, quality pieces that retain value is certainly at play, as is the cultural zeitgeist,” Kelly McSweeney, senior merchandising manager at The RealReal, told WWD. (more…)



Print media – but make it French



Harper's Bazaar France March 2023

Digital media is in meltdown. Again!

Buzzfeed news is dead, Paper followed suit and things aren’t looking too rosy for Vice. Meanwhile, everyone’s sick of Instagram and TikTok is burning us out, one braincell at a time.

It’s enough to send one running to the calm, serene refuge of print mags – particularly French ones. (more…)



Is this the ultimate jean?



APC L'Etiquette jeans

I haven’t bought APC jeans for quite a few years. The last pair were beautifully rigid but too boxy everywhere so I hardly wore them. But always loved the quality of their non-stretch denim.

This APC collab with L’Etiquette (the best mag in France) might change all that. (more…)