Raf Simons

The culture of fashion: the 90s heritage obsession continues



Raf Simons Fantastic Man cover

More on the 90s vintage story I wrote about in June.

Friday saw 26 pieces of vintage collectables land at Dover Street Market New York from the archive of stylist David Casavant. Curating pieces from the last 20 years by designers including Prada, Helmut Lang, and Raf Simons, highlights include a Raf Simons AW00 bomber jacket (example below) loaned to Rihanna for an event, a piece that Casavant acquired after seeing it on the cover of Fantastic Man (above).
Raf Simons patched Jacket AW00 David Casavant

Why should we care?

As I wrote a few weeks ago, the 90s and early 00s are officially vintage and that era of minimalist and conceptual designers has become lionised overtime. The appeal of Casavant’s curation-collection is a combination of fashion history for culture nerds meets celebrity memorabilia. As such, the storytelling aspect of buying and selling vintage becomes increasingly relevant.

It means you can charge more for a piece that has some sort of cultural history associated with it, even if it’s a seller saying they wore it to a particular club, or bought it from a once-iconic store and then relaying the memories attached to it.

Reinforcing this idea, David Casavant was adamant he wanted to sell the pieces in a store. “I wanted to begin small and I wanted to start where you buy them physically in store and not online,” he told WWD. “Having to buy the pieces physically in the store adds a more democratic as well as a more exclusive aspect because you have to actually go there in order to see and buy them. Dover Street Market is the perfect fit for me as they really understood and were excited about the vision. Resale is going to be a staple to stay in fashion and I wanted to be able to provide them with the highest form of…what resale could be like in their store.”

For a customer to buy one of these already special pieces in this way adds to the heritage story and cultural relevance of the piece. And so the chain of value continues.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl / Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Fantastic Man; Grailed
NOTE: Most images are digitally enhanced. Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my privacy and cookies policy here

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Who’s excited for London Fashion Week?



Raf Simons

It’s been off the boil for a few seasons but it looks like London Fashion Week will be back in full IRL technicolour come September. So far, we’ve had news of Burberry and JW Anderson returning and Raf Simons showing in London for the first time (omg!). But just you wait (‘enry ‘iggins), I’m sure there will be more surprise announcements.

Do we dare hope for Phoebe Philo? What’s going on with that BTW? (more…)



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Pucci by Camille Miceli aw22

Emilio Pucci has just landed in its latest guise envisioned by new artistic director Camille Miceli.

Launched with a series of ‘activations’ in Capri to cement its legacy as a lifestyle brand, the see-now-buy-now collection’s dolce vita vibe gels well with the opening up of travel and tourism. ““It has to be about enjoying life, especially after all we’ve gone through,” Miceli told Vogue. (more…)



Wild combinations at Prada AW22



Prada AW22 by Alessandro Lucioni Vogue

How fabulous are Raf and Miuccia together?

I love all the greatest Miuccia hits in the Prada AW22 collection (wacky feather trims, ugly geometrics, voluminous skirts and Mary Jane heels) but juxtaposed with Raf-isms (appliquéd MA1s, big coats, knitwear with a sliver of stretchy white turtle neck attached).

The power punch here is the combo of serious overcoats with sheer panelled evening skirts, something everyone can take ideas from styling-wise and the high street is going to go mad over. I also loved those boxy blazers (I’m on the hunt for a new blazer) and the double bags. Pure influencer-bait, although not too practical. Unless, unless they are literally two bags in one that can be detached and used individually, in which case – too effing genius… (more…)